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I suggest you fiberglass back the missing piece

Well, that’s a “speed nut” that cuts its own threads as you go, and since your studs look brand new (no speed nut threads cut into them yet), I think you need a smaller diameter speed nut

Reasonable. If you’re near a city, you might find it from one of the places that comes out to your car and replaces it in-site

Kern Dog sounds correct...the bumper brackets are bent. If by any chance you find out the FRAME rails are bent (hope not), then making modifications to the brackets would make the most sense. First, I'd see if one/both brackets are visibly bent and bend them back if I could. Second, I'd...

I used some kind of flexible black tape, wrapped around the edge of the glass and shoved together. It worked

On mine, the body guy cut 2” bellow the top of the quarters and left the tops of the quarters alone. The transition up to the convertible trim is pretty steep

Nope. Also, in case you need one, I have an extra top of a convertible quarter panel for a 68/69

this is good advice. Heat does affect the paint's "base" and might yellow it. Why not use a cool place that's also out of the sun?

First, color is changed when it's photographed, emailed, posted online or goes through your computer/phone screen. In your picture, that color looks pretty close, maybe a little on the yellow side (I've had parts from 3 cars that color). Paint color varies batch-to-batch a little bit no matter...

I spent several years as an automotive paint scientist. The color "code" (e.g. FC7) is exact, regardless of the type of paint. The difficulty can be the person blending the paint or their equipment. Orange (& yellows) - I hadn't thought of that, but I believe it. Many yellows/oranges were...

Hmmm...that guy is concerned about 1. adhesion of epoxy to Corroseal or 2. flaky, loosely connected rust that the Corroseal reacted/sealed, but is still weak. On my car, I used a very similar product to Corroseal (Rust Mort) that was allowed to fully dry (1 week or more in my case) before...

For anyone else that runs into this....it worked PERFECTLY! I noticed my old latch had some issues. 1. The star wheel that hits the door striker (the one you can see when fully installed) had its teeth pretty worn & the axle it rides on was sloppy. 2. The white plastic striker, that's part of...

I'm going to try this instead of pressing the "pivot pin" in & out to swap over the lever, I realized that I could make "one lever" out of two on the Ebay one. I cut off the extra arms & welded what was left together, making 1 arm out of 2. I measured this makes my arm 3mm shorter & 3mm...

That is a good idea AFTER the corroseal is 100% dry. I say this because 1/2 of your urethane 2k primer reacts with water & Corroseal is a water-based product

I've got a 70 Road Runner and the driver's door latch is old/worn. The star wheel has worn teeth and the pin it rides on is sloppy. The plastic striker is very worn too. I got another on Ebay, but it's not exactly the same. The star wheel and striker look really good on the Ebay latch...

I found some new information & I have a new question. Apparently, there are TWO different types of console locks. One with a "foot" (like my original lock) and one without a foot (the one I bought). My new question - are the little "lock/key tabs" inside the locks interchangeable? I got the...

70 Road Runner 4-speed console car - I bought a matched set of console/glove box/trunk locks. The aftermarket console lock seems like it's a little bit too large of diameter to fit in the hole in the console lid. I'd really like to have a console lock (mine never locked) and only 2 keys...

Uhhhhhh.......wow. I'm sure nobody "added a seam". Convertibles are filled with lead in that area. I'm curious myself now

I use a touch of adhesive behind my problem trim edges

moparmark is selling a pair....just posted right before you did