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I vote for the plain (no lettering) also. My question is what is that center hole for? I've never seen a poly that had more than front and rear mounting holes.
Yeah, it is hard to explain without a picture but basically I laid the rod in the channel and squeezed it in with the C clamp pushing the lips of the channel apart. This was in the bare channel also. The rod was a wedge so-to-speak. I didn't take any pictures at the time since I had no idea what...
I agree. All I can go by is what I found back in the day. When my brother started having trouble with vapor lock on his Charger while mine never acted up, we did some research. We found my car had the 3/8" fuel line and 1/4" return. His car had a 5/16" line and no return. We went to a bunch of...
My 68 Charger 440 4 speed R/T came with the separator and return line. I don't think the automatics got it though for some reason. IMO, they all should have gotten it. My brother's 383 4 speed Charger did not come with it and he had vapor lock issues quite often until we robbed a 3/8" sender and...
I went through all the same methods as you have tried with the same results as you. I know it is not the preferred method but it was mentioned to tweak the channel a little. That is what I ended up doing with mine. It didn't take much but what I did was take a couple inch long piece of 1/2"...
Here are a couple from my 68 Charger. May or may not be of use. These are all I could find showing brake lines but if you need a specific pic, let me know and I can take some designated pics.
Yeah, I've heard of that. You must be related to my neighbor. He uses the twist lock electrical connectors under his dash too. Why fix the problem when you can skirt the issue and hope it heals itself. Guys like you are the reason I like to do my own maintenance.
My Fluke 87 will zero out and I know it didn't cost a grand. It is about 10 years old. Sometimes it will read .1 or .3 like yours but if I push the Rel button it will zero out. I see you meter is configured different than mine but you should be able to calibrate it somehow. Second pic is after...
I may have missed it since I didn't read every response but I am wondering about the fuel sock in the tank. Just because you are getting clean gas to the carb, doesn't mean the sock is not plugged up with 50 + years of rust and gunk. It seems like you have tried a ton of things but it does sound...
Yeah I think I would do a conversion on mine if they fail too. I see someone has a pair of them on Ebay. ($800 bucks) PN: 2889883
Where did you get the electric ones? Lucky me.......Mine still work properly.
I don't know who if anyone can rebuild the vacuum actuators but I can tell you that your right side actuator should not be bent. I took a couple pics of a complete 69 Charger grille I have and both are straight. Maybe Bambi got too close to yours. Here are a couple pics of mine
I have some concern about the teflon tape on that sender. Many times that tape will not give you a good ground reference. When you get it installed, if you have a digital ohm meter, test from the brass nut (not the stud) to neg post on the battery. Hopefully you will have zero or close to it...
The Pickup coil was my first thought. I have had a couple of them fail over the years. All of them worked fine while driving. They both failed after a shut down and attempt to re-start. Always when I was not close to home. I have only one spare. It tested at 299 ohms. They are a coil so just...
I would put the meter on ohms and test between both wires. I don't know what it should read but it is a coil so should read something. If it reads zero or open, it is junk. Might not be your problem but it could be. Could also be a broken wire somewhere in the circuitry or bad connection at the...