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And painted .

Get all you can with a dull screw driver, little bend up on the blade. Careful of the seams. After that your air drill and a course steel wire brush bit.

Old for sure, 50s , 40s, 4dr sedan or pickup would be my wag.

Can you email a pic with your phone auggie ? I can pm you my email address.

No acetone, let's see a picture of what your working on auggie.

What area of the car ? Picture would be good. You know you can not paint over rust no matter what you try to seal the rust with. Grind it , blast it, cut it out, the rust has to be removed.

Also left qt. panel .

That truck is looking great, you guys have really built a cool hot rod from the ground up. I like the old small window cabs.

Just my 2 cents ... I myself never was a fan of different degrees of tint around a car, looks strange . I like tint, keeps the interior cooler but for overall look of the car/ truck, if 35% will fly that's what I would use on the whole thing. Or none at all.

Yes, chrome will not bend with out popping.

Put what el dubb is telling you in play, Pull it forward a little . Also what Kern suggested about the fender support rod, bring the fender in a little , bumper brackets out a little like eldubb is telling you. Do not tweak those corners on the new bumper please.

Don't do that.

I have used wizard products for a few years now. They have a decent wax/polish that will still bead water after 3 or 4 trips to wash the car. For a quick clean up they have ( mist & shine) Also the have a decent spray on for flat or matte single stage black that protects from tree sap, bird...

Sorry, but all that needs to go back to bare steel. Could be several reasons why that area wrinkled/lifted. Just go back and follow product directions on temp and mix. Wrong reducer lol i reduced a cup one time with 330 ppg grease and wax remover **** happens, Perhaps you didn't get a good mix...

Paint the bay and jamb the car with the paint your going to use on the exterior. After washing use a good prep/ wax & grease remover. Scuff every inch, rinse it off, After it dries hit it again with air & then the grease and wax remover again. Flash time.... and tac it off Now a coat of epoxy...

I put a set on my 67, Mine were the bolt on but I did weld them in place also. There are brands that weld in and follow the floor pan. My set did help. My car had carpet & pad , seat ect so I did not want to use the complete weld in set on the pans. Yes, good company , good products, I would...

I would remove the strikers and latches. Get the sills , pillars and jambs paint ready. Don't put the weather seals on yet. Do a ruff adjust to make sure the door top to cowl and door to qt. Panel and door to rocker is decent. Do not worry about the door sitting in a bit. They will be out past...

Your getting pretty close to spring to stick it in a body shop. Just me but if you have to hire it done I would wait till fall. It's going to have more repair area than your thinking. Most body guys will not leave any old filler in there.

Lol, we did a 51 chevy that the passenger window would only roll down about 4". That door was packed and pin holed. Ended up just getting another door.

To me if your going all out with the resto mod look, tucked and or molded bumpers , complete shave, all glass trim ect. Huge wheels and rubber band tires. Lights in the wheel tubes, ground effect lighting. LS transplant ? Sure shave those rails they will stand out at that point. Nothing wrong...