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Mopar Hunter I am pretty sure it was 3/8 NPT.

I put my fan temp switch in the place indicated in post #9 - works fine.

It looks to me like the adjuster hex needs to go around 1 flat "lower" on the torsion bar.

Yes only use 1.

Thank you gents.

So long as you stay 20 thousands inside the head gasket you will be fine. Pays also to know were the top piston ring comes up to also.

The eyebrow would allow the intake charge (or more of it) to flow out around the valve area near the bore. If the valve is too shrouded it will restrict flow. Be careful not to grind until the head gasket is compromised or you weaken the top of the block.

No the source vacuum and the reading would be the same. The idea of running the PCV off the bottom of the carb is to share as much of the PCV contaminant across as many cylinders as possible.

Run the PCV and brake booster to separate vacuum sources. You don't want any of that contaminant/oily crap in your brake booster. You might need the brakes to work properly at some point.

A Demon is very similar to a Holley and gaskets/parts are interchangeable. It is kind of a copy just so you know. Holley also post tech tips on You Tube.

There are plenty of tutorials on You Tube from good people who will show you what to do and what you may need to replace. Basic work on a carb is not hard so it pays to learn yourself.

I think those Demon's have power valve blow out protection but that is not 100% effective. Also they can dry out from sitting around and rupture. Good point posted - replace the power valve.

Check the accelerator pump is operating correctly.

You are right - nobody who has had 5 minutes of training and has 12 minutes to align a customers car is not going to give a **** about doing it right.

Has it got an oddball part in there somewhere? In theory the length of the rods from the inner tie rod end to the outer tie rod end should be the same at any given toe in setting. All 4 tie rod ends should have approximately the same amount of thread protruding from the adjuster turnbuckle.

No adjustment for that particular problem. Have you got the spring on the clutch fork?

No experience with that particular cam - I haven't seen cams from Cam Dynamics for years. As the others have mentioned with a lobe separation angle of 106 I believe it would most likely not be a street driveable camshaft. You didn't mention what you want to do with the engine - racing engine...

The car will be better to drive with a front sway bar.

I think an important thing to remember in this discussion is the way you would set up a race car is different to a street car.

Down or up is viewed with the known reference point of the car being the front to rear direction applicable to both the transmission and the rear axle. I probably have not explained this well but it is very important point to working out the correct driveline angles. Post #2 is spot on and shows...