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19 is about as good as it gets. Pop open a cold one. One of my dad's friends was a line mechanic at the International dealership. They would take the big trucks to a highway leading out of town to set the timing. It's a steep hill two miles long, so they could put a load on it, stop and...

Plus, my IH FSM's say to give it one degree advance for every 1,000 feet of elevation. Living at 4,000 feet, I find the difference to be noticeable.

Purple Beeper is correct, it could be a ground. Do you have a real rebuild place near you? Not AutoZone or nap, well maybe a Napa if they rebuild in house, but somewhere with some expertise to test it for you. That, or do you have or can borrow a known good one to test with?

A diode?

I believe my 1966 alternator is date coded. My car isn't that rare, but on another that is a survivor, I plan to have the squeaking dry bearing original alternator rebuilt rather than replaced.

Yeah, but if I'm going to do it, I would rather used new, old aftermarket over new box store stuff. Seems to be a lot of new parts failures these days.

I THINK I'm following. While possible to install the pickup and all, the weights and springs would be off. So my best bet is find a Dizzy (I always thought that was an English term), and buy the guy's harness? My Dad was 50 when he bought a new pickup in 1974. His first truck was a 1928...

I put a Petronix in my Triumph in the days before anything else was available. It had a shutter and a light. Is this Module Chrome or Gold. Seems to be half and half. The box also came with 7mm wires and Autolite 85 plugs.

Got these at a farm sale. Will they replace points?

Before spending money, run it at night in the dark and see if there isn't a bad wire or the cap.

Clean it before replacing. This stuff dries without residue. I would start by hosing it without removing anything but the horn button. https://hosatech.com/press-release/why-use-deoxit/

Use a jumper cable for an additional ground. Use the jumper in place of the ground to see if it heats up

A dragging starter might try to draw an excessive amount of power through it.

sometimes fuses look perfectly good, but when tested, they are not.

Put one in my V-8 English car as nothing else was available in those days. Never a hiccup

...and 66 is different than 67

Catastrophic pump failure. Never done it myself, don't know how, but I would try to ascertain why it failed. Is something binding or was it a poor casting from Edelbrock?

Look down the throat of your carb, work the throttle shaft and see if there's a squirt. If not, put a tablespoon of gas in it and see if that makes it want to start. edit: Have a blanket or coat at the ready, and of course, there is an extinguisher by the exit.

Probably the Speedo, might be the cable. Take it loose from the tranny and see what you can see. Most speedos turn counter clockwise, but go slow and be gentle. Speedos are fragile.

I've seen a battery primary ground wire that was too light cause problems with high compression cars when they are at operating temps. The jumper cables from the ground terminal to the chassis would most likely cure that issue.