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  1. LowBikeMike

    68 Non-rally tach wiring

    Here is my 69. I had to search quit a bit before I found a source identifying the terminals. Can't remember where I found it. Spade goes to coil negative
  2. LowBikeMike

    Distributor removal

    To answer your original question, no it will come out in any position. If reinstalling right away do as kiwi suggests.
  3. LowBikeMike

    Napa or Classic Industries for Electrical Parts

    Not brutal, it's known in the community the repop turn signal switches are mostly junk. Just honesty.
  4. LowBikeMike

    Faltering with high revs

    I think you need to talk louder, cause people ain't listening. Ask me how I know.
  5. LowBikeMike

    Headlights and half of gauge cluster lighting magically stopped working.

    Might want to start by telling us what year and model car you have.
  6. LowBikeMike

    Electrical issues? NOW WITH PICTURES AND INFO

    Please do the test recommended in post #36. Cables can ohm good but got to crap under load.
  7. LowBikeMike

    Slowly....dying...

    A proper Ammeter reading would be with needle centered at 0. It will show a little charge after starting, then should settle to 0. What is the condition of your battery?. Depending upon ignition type a weak battery/charging system could cause your issue. What is your voltage at the battery...
  8. LowBikeMike

    Need some help guys

    Hard to say, we really don't know how he did the bypass or how he's checking for power.
  9. LowBikeMike

    Need some help guys

    Is your fusible link still in the circuit and is it good?
  10. LowBikeMike

    Fusible link fried - what to check before replacing

    If you are checking resistance to ground from the Alt output stud you must disconnect all wires that are attached to the stud to get a proper reading. You really cannot check for grounds in a wire unless both ends of the wire are disconnected. Ohmmeters are for checking isolated circuits.
  11. LowBikeMike

    No power to car period now

    Wire on solenoid only has power with key in Start position after relay closes. You might be checking for power on wrong terminal at relay.
  12. LowBikeMike

    Keep burning Voltage Regulators

    Are you referencing the Ammeter? If so, the needle should be centered after a few minutes of run time. If it is always showing a charge I would check the wiring and battery condition
  13. LowBikeMike

    '63 Fury /6- Baffling no start after basic tune up.

    Are wires on distributor cap indexed properly? Rotor installed correctly?
  14. LowBikeMike

    68 Charger Volt/Ammeter gauge issue

    If the needle stays in the same position when running as noted in your third picture, you didn't fix anything. The needle should swing to the charge side immediately after starting, but should settle back to dead center after a few minutes.
  15. LowBikeMike

    Coil Voltage question

    I'll politely disagree.
  16. LowBikeMike

    Coil Voltage question

    Yes, remove distributor cap, put test spark plug in end of coil wire while other end is still attached to coil, ground test plug. Key on, all primary ignition wiring hooked up. Hold soldering gun or electric engraving tool close to distributor pickup coil, pull trigger. Spark plug will fire...
  17. LowBikeMike

    Coil Voltage question

    The pickup coil and reluctor ring is a simple signaling device turning the primary on and off, building and collapsing a magnetic field. You can simulate that action with a soldering gun.
  18. LowBikeMike

    Coil Voltage question

    I'm not advocating you leave the jumper there, and you know that. Its a diagnostic tool, if the vehicle starts he can generally figure the ECU portion of the system is just fine and not worry about the mysteries inside the box. My way of testing this system would be using a solder iron to...
  19. LowBikeMike

    Coil Voltage question

    When it acts up run a jumper wire from battery positive to the positive side of the coil.
  20. LowBikeMike

    Help with '69 RR Ignition and charging

    On a properly operating system, the Ammeter should consistently stay in the center and not read Charge or Discharge. During starting needle will likely be on D side, and after starting briefly be on C side of center, but should settle in the center.
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