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To run an accurate continuity check both ends of the wire must be disconnected. You are reading the ground thru the bulbs or other components in the circuit.

Read the wiring diagram, it tells you everything you need to know!

You need to read the FSM and understand the wiring diagram. If it doesn't make sense, read it again until it does. Imagine the satisfaction you will have fixing these simple wiring issues without running to your computer asking for help. This is a 5 minute diagnosis job, and another 5 minute...

No. It is not. Insulator should be against cluster frame.

I have purchased the insulators shown in the link, they are quality and seem to be the same as original.

Here is my 69. I had to search quit a bit before I found a source identifying the terminals. Can't remember where I found it. Spade goes to coil negative

To answer your original question, no it will come out in any position. If reinstalling right away do as kiwi suggests.

Not brutal, it's known in the community the repop turn signal switches are mostly junk. Just honesty.

I think you need to talk louder, cause people ain't listening. Ask me how I know.

Might want to start by telling us what year and model car you have.

Please do the test recommended in post #36. Cables can ohm good but got to crap under load.

A proper Ammeter reading would be with needle centered at 0. It will show a little charge after starting, then should settle to 0. What is the condition of your battery?. Depending upon ignition type a weak battery/charging system could cause your issue. What is your voltage at the battery...

Hard to say, we really don't know how he did the bypass or how he's checking for power.

Is your fusible link still in the circuit and is it good?

If you are checking resistance to ground from the Alt output stud you must disconnect all wires that are attached to the stud to get a proper reading. You really cannot check for grounds in a wire unless both ends of the wire are disconnected. Ohmmeters are for checking isolated circuits.

Wire on solenoid only has power with key in Start position after relay closes. You might be checking for power on wrong terminal at relay.

Are you referencing the Ammeter? If so, the needle should be centered after a few minutes of run time. If it is always showing a charge I would check the wiring and battery condition

Are wires on distributor cap indexed properly? Rotor installed correctly?

If the needle stays in the same position when running as noted in your third picture, you didn't fix anything. The needle should swing to the charge side immediately after starting, but should settle back to dead center after a few minutes.

I'll politely disagree.