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Pleading Sergeant Shulz..I know nuttin.

That looks very Pro-Billet MSD-ish.....

And the carb choke wire should not come from the ign [ coil cct ].

180 is a good compromise. Stats take 20-30* to fuluy open. So a 195 stat may not be providing max coolant flow until 225*.

I no longer have a Mopar, which is why I asked the question in post #29. Not all of us as knowledgeable as you...

Well explain how millions of cars performed flawlessly....without a return line.

Lower pic in post #43. Wires are soldered, not crimped. Good! But pick up terminals [ right side ] look to be almost touching. Not good!

Note that the stat temp rating is the opening temp. A 180 stat may not be fully open until 200-210*.

Are there aftermarket upper control arms available for Mopars that give more castor? That is what is needed. A P/S box that is working properly moves the wheels after INPUT from the driver [ steering wheel ]. It will stay in that position until it gets another input from the driver. The only way...

You do not need a return line, if you have the right pump......because when they shut off, the fuel drains back to the tank. There is no pressure build up like mech pumps have. A Carter #4594 elec pump will solve your problem, on it's own, NOT with a mech pump in series.

I know when I helped a mate install the Pert module, we didn't even make it to the main road before it failed....

We had AI since WW2. It is called a computer.

This could be many things. If vac adv is being used & has done a lot of miles, the p/up wire could be broken. Every time the VA actuates, it flexes the p/up wires.

I doubt 0.3* of castor is going to generate enough self centering force to overcome the valving arrangement inside the P/S, valving which determines when & how much assist is reqd. Very low tyre pressure would not help either.....

Sometimes lucky....sometimes not....

^^^^ This, & check the float level while you have the top off.

Yup, post #12, HEI. It is a better ign system: less coil heating, variable dwell, hotter spark for bigger plug gaps [ if you use an E core coil with it ], simplified wiring that reduces the number of connections & potential failure points. If you arer worried about failure, for a few $$$, you...

You do not need to remove the intake....at this stage!! Remove ONE valve cover & lay rag down. Put on gloves. Engine idling, put your fingers on each r/arm & listen for a change in noise. Do other side.

With 48K miles, you WILL have a worn needle & seat. That raises the fuel level in the carb & could make the mixture very rich when the engine is hot. Get a new n& s, install, & adjust.

33 IMP, I wish, I wish...