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I rolled the car forward a few inches and the trans dropped straight through the opening and slid it on a towel out from under the trailer. I used the straps to lower it instead of a jack. SOOO much easier than a trans jack and the car on jackstands.

I built this trailer from scratch in 2008. It was originally designed to fit the '67 Charger perfectly, but the Challenger is short enough I can comfortably haul it and the Race Week trailer. It has an open center, allowing me to use it as a work platform. I just used it to drop the roasted...

I'll be getting the kit from Oregon transmission. I'll likely just ask for enough extra parts to make it truly universal and keep the spares for whatever ISN'T inside it. If it's just seals and stuff, it should be a small cost difference. Just making sure it wasn't the clutches or hard parts.

What's the short version of the differences between a 71 and 72 A904? I need to do a light duty rebuild on a 904 to get my car mobile. I don't know what it came from, but it is non-lockup, looks virgin, and the casting date on the tail shaft is about Aug of '71, which leads me to believe it...

Thrust angle FTW. Looks like about 0.75° to the left of center. I'll add about 1/8" shim in front of the right side spring hanger and see where that puts me.

that does seem to be the most likely candidate. And that's an excellent sketch of the situation. We'll see how the measurements look tonight

Yeah, I thought the couplet had a blind spline like the input shaft, so only 1 orientation. and I do only check the toe after backing up about 10', then driving forward with light brake pressure to a stop, and leave the steering wheel dead center, not offset to the locked position. I'll to the...

steering wheel straight = straight line down the road. let the wheel go, turns 10 degrees right. can I rotate the coupler on the box 1 spline and re-enter the tierods to match?

Moog Problem Solver offset UCA bushings arrive Wednesday. + Caster is definitely on the menu. I have the Longacre camber/caster gauge. Once I have the adjustability in it, I can try for a real number instead of the current "front adjusted all the way out and rear all the way in as much as...

Jacked up the front... Zero pull while running. I can set the wheel anywhere and it will stay put.

I'm working on my '71 Challenger (yeah, I know), getting it back into daily driver status. It has a Gen 3 5.7 swap and uses the Gen 3 pump, and yes, I know it makes way more pressure than the old style. I have the toe set to 1/16" in, all the positive caster the stock geometry allows (barely...

Been doing Silver State Classic since 2010, and Big Bend Open Road Race since 2016. We ran the 150 class in May and were well north of 160 for a fair bit, but had a brake issue and had to retire from the course. Since then I finally found my persistent cooling issue (cracked block). #1 thing...

Tried to buy them yesterday but they said it would be another week until they got them.

I do SSCC, NORC, and BBORR. We ran the 150 class in May and were holding 164 on the GPS when the brakes decided to misbehave. We brought it down and pulled off. We're trying again in 3 weeks. Motor is about to go back in after swapping blocks due to a split in the #5 hole. We've won the 125...

'62 F500. This one is in process right now. Pic is from when I first started stripping it down. It needs the 12' bed swapped to my 20' bed that will then be cut and dovetailed to 16'. It's still back in CA since the move to UT. Hopefully I'll have my shop done by next summer so I can go get...

Following up. The cap-walk discussed above was the whole reason I went to studs on the last block. It was happening and leaving significant fret marks at the part. I put the caps in with the stock bolts, torqued and measured, then swapped the bolts for the studs. Max difference was. 001"...

I'm swapping 440 blocks from my cracked original to a '77 motorhome block. The block was virgin bore/deck, already at the machine shop, line honed, magnafluxed, and bored to .020 for a customer that went to jail and sold the block for the bill. I had the bore upped to my .040 over and decked...

I had the EXACT same problem, but was twice as bad before I caught it. Same story, heat shield needed, etc. I ultimately ditched them after the second set failed and went with MityMounts, but I ripped the bolts out of that set. I have the replacements on the bench waiting for the engine to go...

I ordered the set I have on hand (4.410 bore) from Cometic, and it took 4. They said it would vary as parts are built in lots. RMRW 2.0 is a month from today. I need these in less than 2 weeks, which is when I get the block back.

Brand new, directly from Cometic, never opened or handled. These aren't stocked anywhere and there is a 5 week lead time from Cometic, 2 months from Summit. The block I bought them for was no good, and the new one has too much chamfer for the 4.410 bore size. Chrysler B/RB V8 Cylinder Head...