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Side Note - There ARE a/f screws on the outboard carburetors. They are on the front of the outboard carburetor baseplates behind some lead plugs & they are often frozen in place. There's a good chance you'll need to uncover & adjust these a/f screws (idle mixture screws) at some point. Your...

I'm no thermoquad expert.......but I can't think of any way a vacuum could be applied to suck the fuel out, and it won't evaporate that fast, so my GUESS is maybe a crack in the main body of the carburetor? It would have to be something that would let the fuel leak out

Just an FYI - on the other side of the six pack, the "outboard return linkage".....make SURE you have the rods oriented in/out correctly. Otherwise, the back one can just barely hang up on the side of the intake when you floor the motor.....engine goes wide open and stays there.... ask me how I...

no idea, sorry

I worked in the automotive chemical industry. One of our suppliers (who also sold gasoline additives to Shell, BP, etc) told me this: 1. All "base fuel" in your area comes from same gasoline refinery in your area 2. At the refinery, when filling up the tanker trucks, each brand of gasoline gets...

650cfm on a stock motor

Well....I would recommend welding up the tank you have or replacing it with a factory replacement metal tank AND (as mentioned), keep your factory original sending unit if it's working.... the aftermarket ones all suck. Just put a new in-tank "fuel sock" on it

I can see you've thought this through. From a slightly less technical aspect, if that PCV valve is too long and hits the baffle (???), then why not just trim that nipple a little bit so it doesn't hit the baffle? If it were me, I'd "roll the dice" for $7.15. That's a small gamble

My first bet is accelator pump...make sure it squirts like mentioned above by just looking and moving the throttle

Yes, make SURE your secondaries are closing quicly. You might double check to see if your carb linkage is TOTALLY clear of the side of the intake manifold. It will install backwards, then hold you at wide open throttle by dragging on the intake... I lost an engine that way. IF your carbs are...

I've run aluminum fuel line for 20+ years without any issue at all. Stainless steel would work too, but is harder to work with, more expensive and doesn't offer any benefits over aluminum as far as I can tell

You are best off to re-build your original sending unit. The aftermarket ones are junk

I've not done this, but I would be VERY tempted to use a carb adapter since you can buy them off the shelf at O'Reilly for cheap.

These guys are on the right track. As long as the ends are correct, all you need is any cable that no more than about 4"-6" too long (they can bind if they're a foot too long)....otherwise, any one that fits is correct. You do get some "wiggle room" where the cable clamps onto the bracket. If...

Somebody here knows, but I think the Carters are in the 625cfm to 650cfm range. Some factory '70 440's came with 600cfm Holley's (I think the non-high-performance ones...like New Yorkers, etc). Be advised that many Holley's have clearance issues with factory intake manifolds (& that Carters...

@RSZ28 - so, what's the answer?

I've not done that swap, but you are correct that it's pretty much factory intakes or a C4HB (or something??? - can't remember part number) and that's it. If your efi setup isn't more than 1/2" taller than a Holley, it bolts up to intake and fits inside the air cleaner (modified?) it will work...

You're asking a few different questions...no problem. If you just want to drive the car, then leave the 600cfm Holley on it since it's not "that" small. On the 600cfm Holley, that tube has "venturi vacuum", which is what Chrysler used originally (can of worms opened? check). If you're trying...

I have no idea what that filter is, but I suggest you look for a K&N brand filter that fits your aircleaner

Does it reek of fuel at idle?