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I think parts stores now carry "Dextron/Mercon" which works fine

Dude....just find whatever 3.23 posi center section you can find & keep your existing center section as is. That way you can swap any time you want. Any of the center sections will be fine. Also, there's a guy selling a 489 pumpkin with 3.55's in right now on this site

If you have access to the freeze plug, remove it and tap in a standard replacement freeze plug. If you can barely get to it, use one of these (parts store)

I haven't run small blocks in may years, but yes, the same casting number means the heads themselves are the same. If you want to keep the factory 2 barrel intake, those 318 heads you are looking at are exactly the same as what you have now (see list below)...

why not? the trans lines will flex 4".... disconnect the collectors if you think something will hit on the exhaust.

Gotcha....that gives you 1" (about) more clearance.

What about solid motor mounts? They don't vibrate all that much in my opinion. I've changed motor mounts in the car. I used a 2"x4" on the pan rail, jacked it up, slip one out & one in

If you are "locked in" to using that intake, I highly recommend taking it off, drill/tap, & install a hose barb nipple. I believe the little nipple at the base of the carb is too small for a PCV. Yes, you need a PCV. If you want that air grabber hood to actually function (eventually), you'll...

If it's a big block, I would be VERY inclined to just put a new oil pump on the motor....it's so easy to replace on a B/RB

I guess I was looking for the tire circumference or height...but 3.55 is not a "highway" gear. So, how do you know it doesn't have the "pull that it should"? Have you raced 1/4 mile? (time?) Does it "seem" like it's running OK, but not as fast as you'd like? Your camshaft, rear end gear and...

What rear end gear ratio and tire size?

My 2-cents? You just put on headers. Your plug wires "look" like they're too close to the headers on the driver's side. Headers burn up plug wires quickly. Also, for new wires, often the plug end pops off the spark plug (happened to me many times with new wires). So.....I'd suggest you take...

In general, put the transmission cooler at the outlet of the radiator's transmission cooler. If the trans cooler is large enough, a stand-alone unit with its own fan works even better. I'm not sure how big is big enough

1. Calculate your static compression ratio....be sure, don't guess 2. IF it is 8:1, you have 3 options. a. run it at 8:1 b. change heads c. change pistons 3. If the engine isn't balanced (or maybe even if it is) and the short block is fresh, then domed pistons seem like the cheapest...

Also, check to make sure some of your oil pan bolts aren't bottomed out (need washers) and not sealing the pan gasket. Happened to me....took a year to figure it out

3, 2, 1 It's basically a series of levers...longer pedal movement, but less force needed

I think you're fine, but you can always replace the PCV valve (cheap). Inside of the PCV valve, there's a little "pintle" which I believe is like a little weight with a point on the bottom. The point blocks a hole on the bottom (near valve cover end of PCV valve). When engine vacuum (or...

I have no direct experience, but for valve covers and oil pan, would locktight be worth a try?

As mentioned..... pick taller pistons to keep your compression ratio up since you're boring the block anyway. I've run 340/360 heads on 318's and the motors ran well. No idea on hp numbers though

These guys are all correct. I would suggest, even on a budget, to remove both heads and have a basic valve job, valve guides/seals and resurfacing done (basic head rebuild)...both heads. I would also inspect the camshaft/timing chain/lifters while in there.