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OK, thanks for the advice, I'm not overly worried. It does give a couple of revolutions on the wheel depending on the track temp and prep, but mostly it hooks up, It is likely I could get away with a tighter rebound. Would having the lighter T bars allow for a tighter rear?

I set it up at 3 1/2, I have not re-measured since I have had a few runs at the track to see if anything has changed. It has a slight vibration at around 30 mph since I added a 3 degree shim to bring it down to the 3 1/2. No vibration at the track to 120mph though.

There are a few variables, not the least as said with cam events but also elevation, engine temp, quench, even weight of car comes into it etc. But 10:1 with a cranking compression of 165psi at sea level 35 degrees total timing and 180 degree temps is safe with a quench motor - presuming 84cc...

I am concerned about the pinion rise and the angle it may be exerting on the universal. I am unsure of what is going on under the car, that is why I fitted the camera. From what I have seen of other mopars at my track they don't seem to get that amount of rise but I am unsure of their set ups...

I am concerned about the amount of rear rise in the car as to how it is effecting the pinion angle, I did fit a camera under the car but I didn't have it set up correct to record. Stock XHD springs with one extra leaf, front clamped, one clamp on the rear, pinion snubber. I have DA shocks, I...

Yep, it should do, I recon the car has the balls to sneak into the 16 second zone under the right conditions though.

You wont get a lot of separation without traction, the car needs to hook up fairly well to load the suspension. It's a case of trying what works but if you have a prepped track I would be starting with a tighter rebound (12-14) on the rear and if it breaks free loosen it up a couple of clicks...

I think you have potential to run a lot quicker, you have better flowing heads than I do. I have a similar combo and was running about what you are. I swapped out my street tires and 3.23's for drag radials and a 4.10 gear, went to a 1.6 ratio arm, DA shocks on 4 corners and a little head work...

If you have 70 psi at idle hot or cold you must have some fairly tight bearing clearances. I run a 440, solid flat tappet with 0.0025"- 0.0027" clearance rods and mains, 10W40, it has 70 psi cold idle but drops to 35psi hot. That is with an HV pump, if I swap out the spring from my original...

I haven't run my car at the track for some time but I ran the xe275hl cam in a 440, I shifted at 5500, any later and it would slow down, it typically ran 12.8's at 110. It is a dedicated street car with a true street tire and 3.23's so the trap RPM was well under the shift point. I have a solid...

That is exactly how I have set my carb up, work the primary's/IFR's to get a clean cruise and tune the secondaries and PVCR's for power. My PVCR's are almost as big as my primary's. The experts say you should work on about 25% pvcr's/primary jet but that is not what works for me.

I had a pushrod fall out and sit on the edge of the cup, didn't notice it until it wore a grove in the pushrod and started kicking up noise. xe275hl cam, johnson hylift lifters and 1.5 PRW's in stainlesss. I would think the problem happened from bleed down as the car sat for a few months while I...

My all steel 71 Charger R/T 440 auto came in at 3840lbs, no driver, 1/2 tank fuel, aluminium heads and intake, headers, 17" year one wheels 255/50r17 all round, power brakes and power steer, full exhaust, full interior, heater etc, no AC and no spare in the trunk.

Two awesome running cars there, do you really need a deep gear to run quick? It would seem not. Good work.

Is your rear end an 8 3/4? If it were me I wouldn't be running a spool with 30 spline axles behind a 4 speed.