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OK, thanks for the advice, I'm not overly worried. It does give a couple of revolutions on the wheel depending on the track temp and prep, but mostly it hooks up, It is likely I could get away with a tighter rebound. Would having the lighter T bars allow for a tighter rear?

I set it up at 3 1/2, I have not re-measured since I have had a few runs at the track to see if anything has changed. It has a slight vibration at around 30 mph since I added a 3 degree shim to bring it down to the 3 1/2. No vibration at the track to 120mph though.

There are a few variables, not the least as said with cam events but also elevation, engine temp, quench, even weight of car comes into it etc. But 10:1 with a cranking compression of 165psi at sea level 35 degrees total timing and 180 degree temps is safe with a quench motor - presuming 84cc...

I am concerned about the pinion rise and the angle it may be exerting on the universal. I am unsure of what is going on under the car, that is why I fitted the camera. From what I have seen of other mopars at my track they don't seem to get that amount of rise but I am unsure of their set ups...

I am concerned about the amount of rear rise in the car as to how it is effecting the pinion angle, I did fit a camera under the car but I didn't have it set up correct to record. Stock XHD springs with one extra leaf, front clamped, one clamp on the rear, pinion snubber. I have DA shocks, I...

Yep, it should do, I recon the car has the balls to sneak into the 16 second zone under the right conditions though.

You wont get a lot of separation without traction, the car needs to hook up fairly well to load the suspension. It's a case of trying what works but if you have a prepped track I would be starting with a tighter rebound (12-14) on the rear and if it breaks free loosen it up a couple of clicks...

I think you have potential to run a lot quicker, you have better flowing heads than I do. I have a similar combo and was running about what you are. I swapped out my street tires and 3.23's for drag radials and a 4.10 gear, went to a 1.6 ratio arm, DA shocks on 4 corners and a little head work...

Yep, can be hard on the trans if your in 1st, I use the original valve body but with a TF2 shift kit minus the high gear restrictor as I run 15 springs in the high gear clutch. The valve body has low band apply and I fitted a 16 roller 6 bolt sprag and billet front drum. I start in first (no...

Yes, was running 12.3's with a 1.95 60ft, the last run I let the tires heat up more so that it dragged the engine down on the burn out. Just getting a feel for the car at the moment.

So two years on I finally got to go to the track. Same combo as before but changed the crank for a new scat forged crank. I opened up the port runners and trimmed down the guide bosses myself, had a 30 degree backcut done on the intake valves and added some 1.6 mancini arms. 4.1:1 gear and...

Here's a comparison for you, 10.2:1 440 3.75 stroke, 850DP pulls just over 13" @ 900 with an xe275hl Hyd (231/237 @ 50 275/287 seat timing .525 lift). Same engine with a EX282S solid 244/252 @ 50 282/290 seat timing with .520/.540 lift - pulls around 11.7" @ 900. Both on 110LSA. The 275 cam had...

The real time tach kit is a winner, my factory tach was way off, installed the RT insert and it is dead nuts on the money. MSD Magnetic pickup distributor and Rev-n-nator controller. The sticking issue could be another problem on top though.

King do 0.001" either side of standard for BBM. Scat also cut the rod journals at low side for their BBM 3.75 crank.

If you have 70 psi at idle hot or cold you must have some fairly tight bearing clearances. I run a 440, solid flat tappet with 0.0025"- 0.0027" clearance rods and mains, 10W40, it has 70 psi cold idle but drops to 35psi hot. That is with an HV pump, if I swap out the spring from my original...

Thanks, not planning on guessing, just want to know where is best for the adjuster to be. I would imagine not more than a couple of threads showing below the arm.

What is the ideal number of threads showing on the adjuster for the mancini 1.6 rocker arms, 440. Need to order some pushrods, thanks.

Thanks for the heads up on the Penrite, and yes we have that here. matter of fact Supercheap has the 10w40 full syn on special for 29.99 for 4 liters, I ordered a couple of packs for my daily the other day.

Thanks, good to know, what is your opinion on Dino vs synthetic for older engines. I know a lot of guys stick with what they have had good results with, what is your preference.

I don't know of any synthetics that have a high content of zinc and phosphorus, maybe there is but I haven't seen or used one. From what I have seen synthetics use other products such as moly and calcium in their HP package, mainly I imagine as high levels of zinc is not compatible with...