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Do you have the part numbers and brand?

Yeah, right, good to know it works because Uncle Tony said so....

This is what I will end making on my car when reassembling. Pretty much the same than the 73 diagram BUT instead keep hanging out the stock red amm wire down the dash, will simply remove the red #16 path on engine bay side. No need to cut and tape anywhere if making this. the #18 path is being...

Just a basic Helicoil... There are lots of thread repair inserts available & I've used most of them... Helicoils are good enough in this application.... Here's some else's video..

I'm replacing my factory 727 oil pan with an aluminium deeper pan that has a drain plug (and another plug for a temperature gauge if desired). It has a billet filter extension and a neoprene gasket that seems like a much better product than the cork one that was on there - we'll see if it...

BUMP

My semi-ignorant arse would like to see something on the methods being employed...

:bday: :drinks::drinks::bday::bday::bday:

The thick wiring option was to be able to recharge the batt and get better and safer paths to feed everything bypassing the bulkhead. The 18 cavity is to still feed the main splice into the cab coming from the engine bay. the bottom diagram is the same than the top one which is the one I edited...

Im going to try to put it back, just for a piece of mind of all the time and money spent on it. Got some replies now that could fabricate a new nut.

Uncle Tony's garage did a video awhile back on carburetor sizing. He said with a motor that's not stock. The way companies say how to determine what carburetor would work is bs. That's why you can see tunnel rammed small blocks running dominators.

Yeah, didn't use grease, the wheel just pushed the pin up the slot. I will try the freeze/heat thing tomorrow and see if I have better luck. Going to file the starting point just a touch to get it guided in. We'll see.

Probably a good buy. Alum intake & 750 Edel carb alone would be a big chunk of the $1200. You can see through the dist hole, the wear mark on the lifter, so the engine has been running meaning lifters/prods are matched.

I wound up getting a different shop to do the alignment. Cruisin the Coast is October 1st-8th and I was running short on time. My best friend and Mopar brother recently bought a 71 Duster 340 car, which is running low 11s in the quarter mile right now. The first time he took it to the dragstrip...

...of fuel could be used in 18 min. There would be black clouds everywhere & hard to breath....maybe there was less than 5 gals in the container? 12* initial timing is ok, but not ideal, but engine should run ok & idle ok. Rough running/poor idle could be many things: - carb as above - carb idle...

The sector support isn't needed with the Borgeson.

I tried, I really tried to avoid doing this, but this thread just got resurrected AGAIN! Forgive me, couldn't help myself:

All new. I'm missing new front drums because I mistakenly thought the fronts were 11".

He does talk fast... But I guess he has a lot of info to throw at ya and gets it done..