Search results for query: *

True - but I was just pointing out it is not super hard or should not be really pricey to get the crank done so you can use the standard bush and not cut the snout.

Any competent machinist with a large enough lathe with a long enough bed and the appropriate steady would be able to set the crankshaft up and get it running true. Put the damper snout in the chuck and support the rear of the crank with the steady. From there drilling/machining a crank to the...

probably factory - a new welder on his first day on the job perhaps.

Are they drums or discs?

In the 1968 factory service manual - the specifications part of the Brake section.

When new the thickness was 0.886" - 0.878" Minimum is 0.816" They should measure within 0.001" when compared to each other.

You really need to fit a vacuum booster or hydro boost - and a proportioning valve to stop the rears locking up. Look at a modern car and at how many have manual disc brakes - ah that would be none.

The reason they are not much good is a disc brake needs around 900 psi of line pressure to operate efficiently. It is hard to achieve this with a manual setup. A drum brake only needs 300 psi so you fit a proportioning valve to the rear drums to limit the pressure. The front discs need all the...

Have you got a power booster?

If you are going to the trouble of fitting a manual transmission why not upgrade to a 5 speed?

With EFI you may want to use 112 degrees of lobe separation.

It will wick in there to a certain extent. The call is depends on how bad the rust in the fold really is. My experience - if you can see it externally/slightly flaky it is probably worse when hidden in the seam. The factory certainly would have just folded it together no matter what was there...

The gasket is very thin - but check you do not bind the front bearing. Sealer on the bolt threads.

You could try using a little heat from a propane torch. Only "warm" it up though it melts pretty easily.

You can buy a kit off Muscle Car Research at a very reasonable price. It has all the seals, o rings and copper washers you need.

What pattern or how good you can get it depends on the quality of the gearset manufacturing. If that is good as it gets you either decide to run it or buy another gearset.

The switch has sealing O rings so it probably can leak fluid. Yes from what I remember of rebuilding mine the rod would spin if you loosen the jam nut.

You can buy silicone hose reducers or spin an adapter up in the lathe and have a join in the lower hose. Thinking about it a rubber sleeve with 2 back to back hose clips would work. Use the worm gear clips. Might be a trick finding something with a wall thickness 1/8. The bulge on the end of...

I centralise the valve and use a vacuum bleeder. This means there is pressure on either side of the valve which keeps it in the centre. If you are pressure bleeding and use too much force the valve can "shuttle" and jam - then the light is stuck on etc.

I have used the tool all be it a home made one and they do work well. It is for GM and FORD style distribution valves/switches that are isolated from the brake fluid by internal O rings. You are right it will not work on the Mopar style valves/switch.