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Any competent machinist with a large enough lathe with a long enough bed and the appropriate steady would be able to set the crankshaft up and get it running true.
Put the damper snout in the chuck and support the rear of the crank with the steady.
From there drilling/machining a crank to the...
The reason they are not much good is a disc brake needs around 900 psi of line pressure to operate efficiently. It is hard to achieve this with a manual setup.
A drum brake only needs 300 psi so you fit a proportioning valve to the rear drums to limit the pressure.
The front discs need all the...
It will wick in there to a certain extent. The call is depends on how bad the rust in the fold really is.
My experience - if you can see it externally/slightly flaky it is probably worse when hidden in the seam.
The factory certainly would have just folded it together no matter what was there...
You can buy silicone hose reducers or spin an adapter up in the lathe and have a join in the lower hose.
Thinking about it a rubber sleeve with 2 back to back hose clips would work. Use the worm gear clips.
Might be a trick finding something with a wall thickness 1/8.
The bulge on the end of...
I centralise the valve and use a vacuum bleeder. This means there is pressure on either side of the valve which keeps it in the centre.
If you are pressure bleeding and use too much force the valve can "shuttle" and jam - then the light is stuck on etc.
I have used the tool all be it a home made one and they do work well. It is for GM and FORD style distribution valves/switches that are isolated from the brake fluid by internal O rings.
You are right it will not work on the Mopar style valves/switch.