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where can i get one?right now its just the hole.i never got one with the car. it doesnt have to be factory.is there something cheap that looks decent out there?

the oilpan is a rear sump

i just bought this combo.it was in a 2wd dodge truck. its got a long tailshaft trans and i assume a truck oilpan.its also got 2wd truck headers on it. will this all be compatable to put in my 67 coronet wagon? i know the headers are a longshot but maybe?

thanks!

thanks is there enough voltage at idle to keep them lit though? i put them in my chevies but the alternator seems to put out more at idle. they dont dim either..if i try they just turn off at some point

around 1000

im not sure of the condition. my dash lights are very dim and get brighter with rpm. can i change them to led bulbs?they seem to just be one brightness and not afffected by rpm.

thats why i thought grounding the test light good and probing the hot lead in the socket will tell me if its a bad ground

we just changed the whole turn signal switch for another issue. it was slow both before and after. ill look at it this weekend. thanks

one side in the rear of my 67 wagon is lazy. its much slower than the other side. i havent done anything at all with it yet but i was thinking of pulling the bulb and grounding a test light somewhere else to see if the test light goes ant faster. does this seem like a good start?

my wagon came with some bucket seats from i dont know what.it also came with a bench seat which is in good condition but its got a few tears and the fabbric is worn. it seems pretty expensive to recover it properly. is there a good decent looking seat cover i can put on it that wont break the bank?

thanks....i made one similar for a ford axle i had to do.worked like a charm. its nice not just stacked washers

thanks!i ordered 10 last nite from autozone...just 2 bux each

i need longer wheelstuds for the rear of my 67 coronet wagon.i got new wheels and tires and i thought i was correct with the backspace at 5.5.but they hit the leafsprings.ill need to run about a 3/8 spacer.i already bought new lugnuts and would rather not go with very long studs and an open...

what are yout thoughts on pro comp heads.

thank you.........i cant get to that page for some reason. did you keep the stock heads? will i get a lot more from investing in aluminum heads?

i would like to do this for around 3 k. i have the timing cover from a 318 that should work. i dont mind buying heads if i need them.i dont really wanna go as far as pulling the pistons out. the engine ran good and ill inspect the bearings.its on a stand now. im hoping to use the roller...

i have a later model truck 360 magnum engine.i see many buildups for these. have any of you done a good writeup on this? can i still get nice power from the stock heads? i would like to get 400 to 450 hp

thank you guys for the help! we got it last nite. after trying everything my son filmed it with his phone by sneaking his hand behind the gears. that post that sticks out when you turn the key to drive the key was messed up. it was so worn inside that it came almost completely out of the hole...

i think the shaft is not going far enough into the switch.it works when the switch is out but mounted with the bezel it doent go in far enough to turn the parking lights off.is the knob adjustable on the shaft?how can i move the knob back on it a bit?