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I have 68 hemi, but have '67 carb set. Rear carb is 4343S, choke housing is missing. I'd rather buy a 1968 choke housing, but not sure if it will fit and operate correctly in 1967 rear carb (4343S). Do I need the 66/67 choke housing, or will 68/69 choke housing physically bolt up and operate...

thank you!

ok, here are some photos. As you can see I went ahead and installed 3/8" *short* set screws in all unused holes, with a dab of RTV on the threads. This is passenger side but similar on driver side. Note that factory manifold doesn't use all the screws in the head, and the opposite side uses...

Hoping to find a good used brake light switch bracket. it's for a 4 speed car if that makes a difference, I don't know what mine is supposed to look like, it's missing! =( Michael

yes. Heads are same, side to side. And yes, exhaust manifolds are different side to side. Question is "what do I do with the empty, unused holes" in the heads? Fill them with stud below the flange surface, or leave them open? I'll grab some more picutres of bare heads and manifolds tonight...

Yes, photos are from 426 hemi crate engine with original vintage 1968 cast iron exhaust manifolds bolted on. BTW, my original bare '68 heads are same.

these are original factory exhaust manifolds. The hole appears to go into a void through which a head bolt passes.

here are some pictures. Passenger side (rear) shows an open threaded hole. Driver side (Front) shows a half-hole visible.

thought I had a picture on my phone, will post one as soon as I can get back to the shop

Installing the factory cast iron exhaust manifolds on my 426 hemi crate motor. On one end there are two bolt holes that appear to go into the head where a head-bolt goes thru the head. The hole is "open" to the atmosphere. Should I plug it with a stud? The manifold bolt goes into one of the...

I found an factory original ring lug with male spade. All is well.

but...for me I have the factory original harness and I don't want to hack it up...trying to keep it as stock and stock appearing as possible.

got it, thanks. Plenty on Amazon and the like, not that I need 100 of them tho!!

I definitely need that part...where do I source one of those??

perfect, thank you, mystery solved!

Thank you kindly for the response. The tach in the article you posted looks nothing like mine, and the links in the related thread don't help either. I specifically need help with part number 2889151 tach.

I have factory non-rally tach in 1968 GTX, trying to figure out the wiring. Believe that Dark Blue wire connects to the terminal on the left (12V power from the fuse box?), and the other stud on the right (with the black plastic cover threaded on) receives the Grey wire for the tach signal...

Thanks #41. Can't start the engine. Have tried pushing the car (aka, bumping), no luck.

roger all, thanks. Probably a job in tediosity, but might be better than removing the whole drive train. Press in clutch, drive in shim/putty knife/tapered tool, pry up, release. Move 60 degrees, rinse, repeat. Might work, I'll advise results.

Thanks for the idea. Car doesn't run...lacks a carb, battery, etc. everything is new...just stuck. =(