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Post pictures of your current engine and the parts you bought. They should work with nearly anyone’s EFI system. What size are the injectors? What fuel system are you planning on running? I chose Holley because of support. NOT support from Holley as it’s horrible, but support in the form of...
Typically, E85 will also need compatible fuel lines as well. If you have limited knowledge and skills, you’ll need to write some big checks to get this done. There’s very few direst bolt on MPFI “kits”. Is the engine boosted or normally aspirated?
No complaints at all. I designed, fabricated, wired and tuned it all myself. The EFI system is all Holley dominator EFI. It’s an extremely popular system in the drag racing world so finding knowledgeable people who are familiar with wiring and tuning it is easily done.
If those are 0-5v inputs they’ll work with certain systems, but most simple systems won’t have configurable input/output. If it’s CAN based, there’s a couple different languages as I understand it and limited compatibility. Here’s my setup. It’s all Holley Dominator EFI.
Total timing is simply the total timing seen by the engine at a given time under a given set of conditions. It doesn’t specifically refer to WOT and doesn’t dismiss vacuum advance. If manifold vacuum is zero at WOT, then it obviously wouldn’t contribute to the number calculated as total timing...
The induction system has virtually nothing to do with the timing requirements. The compression ratio, camshaft profile, fuel type and cylinder head style will have way more bearing on timing than induction.
Give it a try and report back. It’ll depend on the cam and compression as to where it’s happiest. Mine is a 9.5:1 turbo combo with 258/[email protected] stick. Mine likes timing with the low compression/cam size combo.
Think about timing vs piston position in the cylinder then consider timing vs rpm. As the piston comes up, you need advance in order to fire the charge at the appropriate moment to burn the charge and produce the proper pressure wave to apply force downward on the piston. Too much and you could...
What Geoff said X 2. If you’re restoring one of these heaps, use PVA like the factory did so it’s “correct”. (Air quotes because I’m not a purist) For everything else use MVA.
I have 50 degrees of total timing in at idle.
I fought this same issue with my stainless tank causing fuel pressure issues even with the factory vents. My application is a little extreme as I’m fuel injected with a mechanical cable drive pump but I deleted the factory vents, welded in two 10AM bungs and ran them up into the trunk in a loop...