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Rockers are factory stamped steel... and with the springs I'm running, they should be fine. If anything, I'll just keep an eye on the bay for a used set of vintage iron ones to come through at a reasonable price. At the moment, I'm thinking the Hughes SEH2428BL-11 will be the next cam.

Good point! Damn good point... I'll judiciously clean and inspect. I was laughing to myself while looking at the cam and noting that the backside of the lobes really have no wear on them at all. Good grief I got lucky there... You hear that Ski???? Positive luck!!! :D

Yeah... same goes for me! Polish misfortune catches up with me from time to time as well... for the important stuff/big real life stuff though, I come through pretty much unscathed. Thankfully, that's where my good fortune does pull through.

Yeah... everything was working too as it went back together... dammit. But whatever - I've learned what to be pissed about and what to accept over the years as just a bit of unfortunate luck. Moving on, I'll have it apart - again - later today, and will likely go with the nitriding of a (sigh)...

Good advice. I'm hearing it. I've done about 20 or so cam replacements and at least as many engine rebuilds (many, many more motorcycle motors) and I've never had the problems that this one has given me. Granted, it's been at least 10 or so years since I did a car engine, and this is the...

Don't need to be a weather man to know which way the wind is blowing with these 3 pics. And this isn't the lifter that collapsed either. All other cam lobes look pretty good - but not this one nor the lifter from it. ****. Not really thinking bad enough to rebuild fully though... I hope...

Well... I've discovered a collapsed lifter. Probably due to insufficient preload. Ugh. When I pull the intake, I'll carefully inspect the cam surfaces to see where that stands. I have a brand new set of hughes lifters sitting in a box, so I'll drop those in providing the cam isn't toasted.

Whether .020 or .050, it'll be a LOT more than the rods had before.

That sounds like a plan... and likely cheaper lol! How much preload should there be on the lifter anyway?

.040 down the bore kb flat top cast. Heads nor block milled. Nothing making contact inside chambers. The thought of adjustable rods isn't my idea of the best solution, just the most affordable "correct-ish" solution right now. $700-$1000 isn't in my budget for this year.

Awesome info! Spoke to an old school builder of motors. Issue could be multifold. Suggested I switch to 20w-50 hot rod oil and drop in a set of adjustable pushrods. Aftermarket stainless steel valve heights, thicker than stock head gasket, all work to physically raise the valve train higher than...

The motor may have just gone through an aggressive heat cycling which made the need for adjustable rockers apparent

Negative. Took one apart and didn't see anything wrong. I'm now thinking that new rockers and pushrods are likely what are needed.

That I don't know/can't tell. I'll throw it out out there - anyone have an extra set of iron rockers they don't need? Lol Just really odd that they got noisy just recently

Hmmm... time for rockers. Ouch. What about the lifters not bleeding down? Completely incompressable

Just checked a random lifter - the cup can't be pushed down at all even with a lot of downward pressure. Odd?

Might I just need adjustable rockers to take up the valvetrain slack? This last run was the hottest the motor got since rebuild. maybe just all expanded and got noisy? Maybe oil too thin?

One valve cover off. Lots of oil everywhere. Rocker shafts all tight. Clearance between rocker tip and valve is a couple thou. Pulled a couple lifters and they still look new. All pushrods straight. Hmph...

I'm using the comp lifters that came with the cam in the kit. Part 822-16. they were relatively quiet until yesterday. Now they are ALL noisy. Strange.

Would the retainers bottoming on the guides collapse lifters as well as possibly bending pushrods?