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That car looks good. You might see if someone in Normway can fabricate a piece of metal to fill that rust hole. This webite and moparts.com are good places to look for parts.
I like that wagon. OK, stupid question...if wagon tanks are that rare, why not just weld the crap out of them? I mean, I wouldn't car if I had big pieces of sheet metal welded in as long as it didn't leak. It's not a concours hemi roadrunner or anything.
I've run an under-bumper scoop on a Ford once...but back to your car. "Something" has to be custom looking. If you can't get to the inner headlights & you don't want to cut anything, then the upper control arm cam bolt holes you picked out make sense. I suggest you focus on that hole and see...
I was going to recommend the old school NASCAR cowl air induction too. But, if you really want to run the air inlets under the bumper, I'd guess there's about a snowball's chance in hell the charger valence will fit. How about a Plan B? Maybe get another 70 Coronet valence and build some air...
I think hemi2much wants to see a picture of the firewall on the passenger side from inside the car, down by the passenger's feet where the heater box "would" be.
Also, please tell us about your electric air grabber actuator
Are you going for top notch, or driver quality? For driver quality, I taped off & spray painted the black area. I also bought some woodgrain overlays that go on top of what's already there, reproduction boots and a reproduction door hinge. If your console key matches your glovebox and trunk...
Yeah....don't cut that hood. I like the flat hood and/or fiberglass to cut & modify. You're idea of using a N96 base is a good one. If you're making your own fresh air, you could really just do like the old NASCAR guys I've seen.... just use a cheap round aftermarket air cleaner that fits...
Like Cranky said, I've seen that type of setup on old NASCAR cars. The front of the windshield is a high pressure area and you get a little bit of "ram effect". Hadn't thought about the interior backfire situation (good call Stanton)….but I like you're anti-backfire flap idea.
You mark the hinge locations for doors, trunk, hood, etc because the hinges are adjustable & you can put the door (or whatever) back on & have it line up right away instead of messing with it for hours to re-align it. In a perfect world, you would prime it with metal etching epoxy primer & then...
I don't have exact measurements....but. There are two different trunk lids for a '70 and any lid could have come on any '70 Plymouth b-body model. One will accept a go-wing & the other will not (different skin underneath). My Roadrunner had the trunk lid without the go-wing cutouts, so I...