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180 here as well. I "thought" 180 was original ??? I've "read" don't go cooler (like a 160)

When I added two small pusher fans (+ factory fan/clutch), my car idled cool, but began to overheat cruising on the highway (they blocked air flow)

You can drill a 1/8" hole, or have a little "wiggle piece of brass" in an existing hole or similar. It's just something to allow any potential trapped air to not get stuck behind the thermostat....hot air bubbles won't let the thermostat open....so you get the bubbles out. In general, it...

Yes, you have an air flow problem at idle. My shroud to radiator gap is maybe 3-4mm

Another Solution - That "temp" push/pull button to the left is also connected to a cable. That cable ends up just above the passenger's right foot. It has a tiny loop on the end of the cable & that loop attaches to a "L" pencil-thin piece of metal (a little lever) coming out of the heater box...

Nope.....70% water/30% antifreeze (30/70 may make more sense). Look at the back of many antifreeze bottles. It tells you what blend of antifreeze/water you need for freeze protection at various temperatures. In a perfect world, you'd use DexCool 30%, distilled water 70% and a 1/2 bottle of...

Cummins used HD silicate type coolant.....at least it did years ago. They may have gone to ELC (likely) by now.

Yes, flex hose

Hey Ranger, water wetter is...... corrosion inhibitors + dye + surfactant + water. The surfactant lowers the surface tension lower than water has on its own (the hype) which has the unwanted side effect of being very foamy....and foam doesn't cool well and is hard to pump

Just so everyone knows.....water transfers heat better than antifreeze (ethylene glycol), so the idea of running a 70%water/30%antifreeze blend is a good idea in hot climates. Racing or really hot, just use distilled water and Joe Gibbs, water wetter, blue ice, lucas purple, etc. All of those...

Trench, don't freak out brother. I had to substantially massage a Champion to put into my 70 (mainly the shroud). So....if you've got at least a 3-core, 26" wide aluminum radiator, it will cool a 440 (you don't have twin turbos or something do you?). In what way doesn't it fit? If the side...

maybe a dumb question.... but are you positive you don't have a heater delete hemi car?

I'm not sure if this applies, but when I first got my '70 the heater control didn't work (broken cable?). I used to just flip a lever over the air box near the passenger seat. You can reach it with your hand and it worked...."hope" this helps.

I used to be an antifreeze scientist. Any coolant that lists ASTM D3306 on the bottle will work. "ELC" (extended life coolant) also known as an "OAT" will last the longest. "Conventional green" is what our cars came with originally (a little hard to find). Make SURE you used distilled water...

Honestly, what I found in my research is that most coolants will work in old 440's....BUT, they should NEVER be mixed together. I suggest Dexcool-type because 1. it's cheap 2. it works 3. it's common The "dexcool" formula (look for 2-ethylhexanoic acid or 2-ethylhexanoate on the label) is sold...

Well, in a previous job I was an antifreeze scientist. Anyway, the G11/G48 you describe looks like a "HOAT" (hyrbrid organic acid technology)...which means it's part inorganic (old school conventional green) and part organic (dexcool). Anyway, I would recommend you run Dexcool (aka an "OAT"...

Bob, if I'm reading that correctly, it looks like the total fan blade area is more important than the number of blades (makes sense).....but if all things are equal (like blade area, blade angle, etc)....... wouldn't more blades still equal more flow? Or am I missing something?

"all else being equal"....more blades, more air

Interesting idea on the inline coolant filter....but back to your problem. As mentioned above, put the old radiator back in, use a chemical flush, use distilled or deionized water. I like to take out the thermostat and run the water/chemical mix for 2-3 days. Flush with plenty of distilled...

Maybe see if you can rig up something to adapt a radiator pressure tester (radiator cap neck & adapt it to fit a 3/4" or 5/8" hose). Attach it to one side of the heater core & use a rubber cork on the other side held in with duct tape??? OR....maybe attach a hose, put your thumb on the other...