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What's your budget? I used undercoating inside the lower half of my doors. Trunk lids would be body color underneath. Have you considered a '71 Charger "Ram Charger" hood?
Like R413 said, just ask for paint color "EK2" and you should be able to find somebody that can mix that color. Paint is all "tint-to-order"....so, you just need a painter who has the "EK2 recipe" to blend your orange. Easy peasy
It's been a while...but I've had a couple of those and I sure don't remember THAT big of a wiggle in them. I think those might have been squashed on the end of the box.... but I could easily be wrong. Fitting one couldn't hurt, right?
I'm not so sure about the Dodge doors (???), but the 68-70 doors will fit your car. The 68's do have the "lock button" further forward....but you can fill in the hole & re-drill it in the 69/70 location pretty easily. I have a 68 door on my 70 now
I'm not sure of the hole size. There is definitely a "left" and "right" one. Also, the key is to keep the holes "in a row", but left/right doesn't matter to much if it's not perfect. The retainer clips can slide left/right a little bit if needed.
One of my Roadrunner caps came off a 4 dr Belvedere if that helps. Oddly, I added a rear wing (not original on my car), but my original trunk lid didn't have the cutouts for the wing bracket....but that same 4 dr Belvedere had the trunk lid with the wing bracket cutouts??? I scored both in a...
Well, for a 70 Plymouth, all the quarter panel caps are the same with the exception that some have holes drilled in them for trim (GTX/Satellite) and some do not (Belvedere/Roadrunner), but otherwise the same caps. I'm pretty sure a 68 Dodge would be the same way.
I do know epoxy. Scuffing before topcoating is a good idea if it has "dried" for a long time. Epoxies are compatible with every topcoat I know of.
epoxy - great chemical resistance, poor sunlight resistance
urethane - good chemical resistance, great sunlight resistance (with aliphatic...
It's possible, but MUCH more expensive that way. The hoods are the same besides the trap door frame/hole. You have to buy all the air grabber parts anyway, why not the hood? They're available aftermarket. 69 air grabber is a bolt-on to a stock hood. 70 air grabber is not.
If it's a 70 Roadrunner.... the biggest mistake I see is the dust trail side stripe. However, I do have to admit I've seen some pretty crooked stripes in old factory original pictures, that's for sure.
Anyway, there's a left & right, front & back orientation about the dust trails. You have to...
In that case, buy extra filters and change them out. Also, take breaks to get some fresh air. The solvents in the paint are what's doing that. It's basically like sniffing glue. The organic filters can get "full" (basically) and need to be changed out.
Yep, it's confusing. The safety data sheet you showed is for an epoxy (no isocyanate in an epoxy). That is 1-component of a 2-component paint. Your hazards will be 1. very flammable 2. dizzy headache (solvent vapors) If you have to use cartridges, pick ANY one of them that says "organic...
I know your answer...... none of the EN rated masks are safe for 2k paint. You need a half-face or full-face respirator with organic vapor cartridges (& outer dust filters to make the organic vapor cartridges last longer). Hope this helps!
p.s. there are many different organic vapor...
It looks like forward and nose up some. Is there any way you could clearance the body side of the chin spoiler to make it slide up more snug onto the body? You wouldn't be able to see the clearancing once installed I don't think. Even aftermarket those chin spoilers are bad ***
I believe those wheel well lip chrome pieces are very valuable, so don't just paint over them. Road Runner's and Belvederes (same body style) usually didn't have that chrome, so you can just take it off. Also, the chrome "side vents" could be replaced with ones from a Road Runner/Belvedere/GTX...