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Check out Au-ve-co Products. I have bought a box of 100 specialty fasteners for pennies compared to some on-line suppliers. Most industrial suppliers have a listing of their products or go on line http://www.auveco.com/
One other thing to watch for is these older engines have soft valve seats. Prolonged use of "un" leaded will wear the seats allowing the valve to sink into the head. If your going into the engine, have the valves ground and hardened seats installed.
looks good in the picture. A very close up look for rust in the body and floor/trunk will tell you what you have to work with. That rear end gear is a bit much for the street but do-able. That might be your first expense. I'm sure you could get it for less then asking price.
looks like an orange fender and hood with some wrinkle finish paint (or brake fluid spill), you'll have to move that black piece out of the way so I can get a better look.
I've found that leaving the lower control arm loose at the ball joint allows the arm to pivot down a little lower which gives a better alignment between the rear and front hex's. Make sure the adjustment bolt is backed off or removed. Yeah, a little help pushing the torsion bar forward while...
I rebuilt my 68 Charger from the Media Blaster up and never came across that part. My only guess would be the brace to support the tail light trim cover in the trunk, not on the 68. If that ain't it then I'm pretty sure the rudder for a ducks *** is correct
does the engine turn over freely with a socket on the damper pulley bolt? Did you test the starter before installation? Do you have an after market bell housing? Your last sentence, is that a statement or a question? are your cables and terminals clean and in good shape?
I used every mag picture I could find, Year One catalogs, repair manuals, etc. I could find and took my camera to local and major shows looking for original mopars to put my 68 Charger together correctly. If your still looking I can send pictures and/or information.
I agree with 696pack's statement. I to have bought aftermarket name brand parts through the years only to find some don't fit or require modifications. And when you finally get through to their "tech" support they act like your the first person to call with this problem and can't help you.
I worked at the Chrysler Trenton Engine Plant, on the V8 crankshaft line, in 68/69 until uncle sam got me. Sure wish I had paid more attention back then haha
I agree with a lot of the people here on the P275/60R15 on a 15x8 rim. After taking all my Measurements, I went to TireRack.com to research tire size. If you click on the tire they give you all the dimension so you can compare. This size gave me the largest tire diameter and most width to fill...
Radials would be my choice to for improved handling. The term Wide Oval refers to the profile created by the cross section of the tire and rim combined to create an oval shape.
One simple check, that would cause this, is if the primary and secondary shoes are in the wrong mounting locations. They should be installed short lining to the front of the car, long lining to the rear. Hope I didn't insult your mechanical skills lol but I've seen it happen. Just the first...
CJ, a large tire size in a stock wheel well is limited to several factors. The size of the wheel well, rim size and off-set, or back set. I went to TireRack.Com to research tires for my 68 Charger with new M/P Hemi springs and 8x15 inch stock steel wheels. If you click on a selected tire it will...