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drill & tap that hole and don't be afraid to use metric or whatever is just barely larger. OR, you can put some epoxy in the hole...pack it in there good... and drill/tap that epoxy. Just make sure to tighten that epoxy hole gently. OR a heli-coil

I've been down this road. 1. 4-speed crankshafts are all drilled out in the center of the back crank flange for the pilot bushing to fit inside. 2. Automatic motors "might" be drilled for a 4-speed, but most are not. There will be a small hole in the back of the crank flange, but the pilot...

That car looks good. You might see if someone in Normway can fabricate a piece of metal to fill that rust hole. This webite and moparts.com are good places to look for parts.

If you need one, I think I've got and extra upper section of a 68 satellite convertible quarter panel (passenger side I think...I'd have to look)

You mean Superbird or Road Runner? On my 70 Road Runner, that 2nd tiny little vacuum port is for the air grabber hood

To me, it sounds like your brown (crank) ignition wire isn't delivering power to the ignition, but your blue (run) ignition wire is delivering power. That could be wiring or the ballast resistor (maybe burned up the new one?)

My 70 Road Runner has lights (fyi)

Pretty much your only choice to remove mold/mildew is bleach. I'm not sure exactly how concentrated the bleach needs to be (5%, 10% ?%) & watch out for your clothes and carpet so they don't get their color bleached out

Side Note - There ARE a/f screws on the outboard carburetors. They are on the front of the outboard carburetor baseplates behind some lead plugs & they are often frozen in place. There's a good chance you'll need to uncover & adjust these a/f screws (idle mixture screws) at some point. Your...

These guys are correct. You have a short memory n your steering column wiring. There are two harnesses that run down the column from the key/turn signal switch & end up by your feet at the bottom of the column. Wires often melt right at the connectors by your feet, but can melt anywhere. If not...

in general, it is going lean….so you need more squirt from your accelerator pump(s)

the plug on the right looks oil fouled, so maybe a bad valve seal on that one cylinder? Maybe try one of those anti-foul things that screws over the electrode tip

I'm no thermoquad expert.......but I can't think of any way a vacuum could be applied to suck the fuel out, and it won't evaporate that fast, so my GUESS is maybe a crack in the main body of the carburetor? It would have to be something that would let the fuel leak out

I’ve not done this swap. The 3-speed manuals are quite rare. I think it’s a bolt in swap (there’s no special cross member that I’m aware of). You definitely need the 4-speed linkage. The shifter, bellhousing, clutch, etc are almost for sure the same. I’m not sure about driveshaft length

Crack in the bottom tank? Are you running the car hard and getting some flex in the chassis? Just thinking out loud....maybe see if you can put some type of rubber isolators in there somehow???

Agreed with above. It sounds like you've got a short in your field wire between the voltage regulator and the alternator

I think parts stores now carry "Dextron/Mercon" which works fine

Found an aluminum one for $85. Saw a factory one that just sold on Ebay for $60, although most look to be about $100. You might check for a used pump (to get the pulley) on this site. You might also check a salvage yard (maybe a C-body pulley). "Maybe" 440 Source?

This may help https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/68-charger-power-steering-box-removal.157750/ Apparently the Borgeson box uses a different coupler than the factory steering box. Also, I'm 90% sure you'll have to unbolt your steering column to install the box/coupler. BE VERY...

I had a bad aftermarket one - fyi