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Without pulling up any spec's.... I think R/T Boy 67 may be correct. If those springs are "SS" or "super stock" type leaf springs, they require special front hangers that are longer (& usually have two sets of holes)
drill & tap that hole and don't be afraid to use metric or whatever is just barely larger. OR, you can put some epoxy in the hole...pack it in there good... and drill/tap that epoxy. Just make sure to tighten that epoxy hole gently. OR a heli-coil
I've been down this road.
1. 4-speed crankshafts are all drilled out in the center of the back crank flange for the pilot bushing to fit inside.
2. Automatic motors "might" be drilled for a 4-speed, but most are not. There will be a small hole in the back of the crank flange, but the pilot...
To me, it sounds like your brown (crank) ignition wire isn't delivering power to the ignition, but your blue (run) ignition wire is delivering power. That could be wiring or the ballast resistor (maybe burned up the new one?)
Pretty much your only choice to remove mold/mildew is bleach. I'm not sure exactly how concentrated the bleach needs to be (5%, 10% ?%) & watch out for your clothes and carpet so they don't get their color bleached out
Side Note - There ARE a/f screws on the outboard carburetors. They are on the front of the outboard carburetor baseplates behind some lead plugs & they are often frozen in place. There's a good chance you'll need to uncover & adjust these a/f screws (idle mixture screws) at some point.
These guys are correct. You have a short memory n your steering column wiring. There are two harnesses that run down the column from the key/turn signal switch & end up by your feet at the bottom of the column. Wires often melt right at the connectors by your feet, but can melt anywhere. If not...
I'm no thermoquad expert.......but I can't think of any way a vacuum could be applied to suck the fuel out, and it won't evaporate that fast, so my GUESS is maybe a crack in the main body of the carburetor? It would have to be something that would let the fuel leak out
I’ve not done this swap. The 3-speed manuals are quite rare. I think it’s a bolt in swap (there’s no special cross member that I’m aware of). You definitely need the 4-speed linkage. The shifter, bellhousing, clutch, etc are almost for sure the same. I’m not sure about driveshaft length
Found an aluminum one for $85. Saw a factory one that just sold on Ebay for $60, although most look to be about $100. You might check for a used pump (to get the pulley) on this site. You might also check a salvage yard (maybe a C-body pulley). "Maybe" 440 Source?
This may help
Apparently the Borgeson box uses a different coupler than the factory steering box. Also, I'm 90% sure you'll have to unbolt your steering column to install the box/coupler. BE VERY...