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They do get quite hot. I don't like leaving the doors open for extended periods. If I do I pull the timer out of the connector or disconnect the battery.

Yep E bodies the post about pitman arm etc was from a guy goes by DRIVUN One of the posts from him gave a good description of his problem and how he solved it. The Borgeson box does require a pressure mod to the Saginaw pump.

There was a thread on FEBO I think from someone who had the fast ratio stuff but removed it and used stock and it solved his problem.

True - but I was just pointing out it is not super hard or should not be really pricey to get the crank done so you can use the standard bush and not cut the snout.

Any competent machinist with a large enough lathe with a long enough bed and the appropriate steady would be able to set the crankshaft up and get it running true. Put the damper snout in the chuck and support the rear of the crank with the steady. From there drilling/machining a crank to the...

probably factory - a new welder on his first day on the job perhaps.

Are they drums or discs?

In the 1968 factory service manual - the specifications part of the Brake section.

When new the thickness was 0.886" - 0.878" Minimum is 0.816" They should measure within 0.001" when compared to each other.

You really need to fit a vacuum booster or hydro boost - and a proportioning valve to stop the rears locking up. Look at a modern car and at how many have manual disc brakes - ah that would be none.

The reason they are not much good is a disc brake needs around 900 psi of line pressure to operate efficiently. It is hard to achieve this with a manual setup. A drum brake only needs 300 psi so you fit a proportioning valve to the rear drums to limit the pressure. The front discs need all the...

Have you got a power booster?

If you are going to the trouble of fitting a manual transmission why not upgrade to a 5 speed?

With EFI you may want to use 112 degrees of lobe separation.

It will wick in there to a certain extent. The call is depends on how bad the rust in the fold really is. My experience - if you can see it externally/slightly flaky it is probably worse when hidden in the seam. The factory certainly would have just folded it together no matter what was there...

The gasket is very thin - but check you do not bind the front bearing. Sealer on the bolt threads.

You could try using a little heat from a propane torch. Only "warm" it up though it melts pretty easily.

You can buy a kit off Muscle Car Research at a very reasonable price. It has all the seals, o rings and copper washers you need.

What pattern or how good you can get it depends on the quality of the gearset manufacturing. If that is good as it gets you either decide to run it or buy another gearset.

The switch has sealing O rings so it probably can leak fluid. Yes from what I remember of rebuilding mine the rod would spin if you loosen the jam nut.