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What does "way too close" mean ?? Either they rub or they don't !

Is that ...diarrhea ?!?!?!?

These photos illustrate the curvature. The front 3 feet of the door are straight, the dip is the the back 3rd of the door - which puts it about half way down the length of the car. the dip is roughly 1/4" deep. '69 RR - original door.

Factory offset for the rear ends is only 1-3/16" (approximately). Nowhere near 2". Offset is measured at the pinion. Offset was always ONLY to accomodate the steering box.

Probably due to have the fluid changed or topped up. Try that and get back to us.

I wonder what the reult would be if you ran it through a flasher relay !!

The horn has to warm up a bit - hold the button down for a few minutes.

I vaguely remember making my own replacements - was probably a dozen years ago if not more. Made out of UHMW on a tablesaw.

I'm pretty sure you're going to have to replace the frame. No big deal - lots available at swap meets, etc. HOWEVER, I believe Dodge and Plymouth are different so make sure you get the correct one.

Changing tires, front brakes. The list goes on !!!

Mine lifted my '69 RR rear end just fine with 40 psi !! 130-150 ... I hope not ... my 60 gal 5 hp only goes to 120 !!!

a) the nut is installed backwards b) get rid of that spring. The correct spring should attach in that little notch in the fork itself - this will keep things snug and will also pull back the fork - not just the linkage. c) a proper shorter spring will attach to the bellhousing d) the fork does...

Sloppy works just fine

You sound like the kind of customer nobody misses !

There is a "swoop" because it transitions from the front fender bulge to the rear quarter panel bulge. Unfortunaly I have no photos that really highlight it

Just curious why you need a steel one ??

Could be the wrong year/model mount. If the auto mount works, use it! If I remember correctly there were two different long tailstocks - with the mounts in different locations. Maybe E bodies and/or '71 and up ??

No. My buddy has that one. No difference.

I bought that exact one for the same purpose as you. It works fine BUT if you jack the car in the middle - like on the diff for example - it will sway to either side. Ideally you should jack one side and use axle stands for support. It lifted the rear of the car effortlessly with on 40 psi...

Why would a T-10 make any difference. All that clutch mechanism can be in place with no transmission at all !!