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Same thing happened to me. Thanksgiving dinner. I’m not much better today than I was when it started. After three days there was a noticeable improvement and then fourth day it went right back to bad. These are the days when Netflix , prime , and football games come in handy.

Baffled on those, you need to ask in the general forum and mark this WTB thread "SOLD" or "FOUND" before the mods get ugly ! LOL

So I have my fender tag just about completely decoded. I only have 1 number that I can’t seem to find anything to tell me what it is. See attached photo. Line 7 under g, can’t figure out what #3 is.

Thanks Jerry.

Wow that was very dangerous

Navin R. Johnson

First thing is lose the pistons and build a quench motor, I did and its a beast. 915 heads ported/polished, light weight JE/SRP pistons, Mopar .528 Mech Cam, 6 pack setup, perfect .040 quench with .020. steel shim gasket. 520 HP on pump gas with dyno headers.

I don't think this guy was going to talk his way out of a ticket.

I was born a poor black child....

you could fill it, even body filler won't "chip off"........ but in that situation, I usually drill the spot out welds and adjust the hood skin on the frame

I was born penniless, and have managed to hang on to most of it.

That would work, but I think the block deck and heads would have to be surfaced for the mls gasket.

I like your cam specs (close to a Howards hydro I have in a 400), but I really want to avoid hydraulic lifters on this build.

Good advice, but I didn't want to go full machine shop mode on this project. Forged pistons would require a hone to fit for piston to wall clearance or possibly another over bore if I raised the CH, and then some aftermarket con rods and rotating assembly balance for sure. Might as well have...

...advance amount but wasn't sure by how much. You can see the welds here. When I had the engine on the dyno, it was checked and there is 20* mechanical advance. But since my engine has the KB107 pistons in it and they are hypereutectic - I've read that total timing shouldn't exceed 34* when...

Would you happen to know where these brackets go? Thanks in advance. I'll set up a Member's Restoration thread when we get it all back together.

Local John Deere dealer, Blitz Black works too. If you want spray can or shoot it from a gun.

Not sure this is a good idea or not but I’ll throw it out for comment - high strength, 2-part panel bonding adhesive feathered on, like 3M, 07333. That stuff is tough. Block area afterwards with thin coat of high quality filler like Rage.

Case is grounded to firewall and engine block. What I am confused about is the alternator wiring which is correct

Sparkplug brackets changed some year to year, but the heatshields were the same I think.