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Thanks for your replies. I think I'll move forward with the spring relocation and housing shortening. I've watched a few videos and read a couple of articles and feel confident that I can do this. @Rebelrouser , I'll check out the axles. Question: I'm considering AMD's leaf spring relocation...

I am now starting to add parts and pieces back to my 68 Coronet 500. I wanted to start with the rear wheels since I had lots of questions about my plan to begin with. First off, I LOVE the slotted aluminum wheels since I had them on my 68 Coronet 500 in high school. I appreciate that you may...

I'm looking for the front section of a 68 Coronet 500 quarter panel. (I'm hoping that someone needed the back half and has the front half laying around.) I tried to repair what I have, but it's pretty lousy (better than what it was but....)

Okay, now to the latch area. I figured I'd do the whole latch area since everything was holey. Here's the initial fabrication. I spent a lot of time getting the angles right: Lots of fabbing, stretching, bending, and hammering. I created a reinforcing plate in back of the three holes for the...

@eldubb440 is selling his lid and I was able to look there for roughly what I needed but would still appreciate closeup pics of the corners. I couldn't stop myself from moving forward. The indent for the bumper/stop looked about 4.5" in from the edge and was angled slightly, so I cut and bent...

Okay, I need some help. My corners are shot and I don't know what they're supposed to look like ... and where the rubber bumper/stop goes. Could someone with a 68 Coronet take a measurement or two and/or a picture or two? I'm trying to figure out 1) the placement of the bumper stop: ... and...

Continuing. I poured some a couple of cups of OSPHO into the lid and sloshed it around to cover the rusted inside: I used my English wheel to add a bit of concave to the tail panel: I cut the keyhole from the old panel and welded it into the replacement panel: I'll add a bit more weld to...

I got the gun for when I squirted the self-leveling filler on my window channels.

Thanks for the suggestion, RJ. My next project is my hood so I figured I’d buy a cartridge. $75 on Amazon!! Yikes.

Fabbing a replacement for what I cut out. It's essentially two pieces: the back panel and the piece that connects the back panel to the deck lid bottom. I cut a piece for the back panel making sure to give myself 3/8" to fold over: I scored the line to help with the foldover: Here are the two...

Okay, I decided to start with the back of the lid. I marked off what I wanted to replace, cut, and then cleaned the inside a bit:

Thanks for the tip about the dampening material, RJ. Help me understand why I would decide to separate the pieces. I know that the edges are rusted, but I believe that I can easily grind that out. The rear panel and edge will definitely need separation/replacement but I want to avoid separating...

Challenge accepted. Let's see how I do with my deck; I may be back, Dave! (As you used to have in your tagline, "More miracles than Jesus!")

I don't have my 10,000 hours in yet (which I guess would make me an "expert") having started only two years ago, but with eldubb's encouragement, I'm fearless. (Okay -- more confident than I likely have the right to be :) ) My tail panel was in much worse shape and I'm pretty pleased with how it...

Thanks for the pics!

68 Coronet purchased in 1974 for $750. I loved that car even though it was a 318 with a column-shifted automatic. Made me look cool :) And it always started in those cold Minnesota winters!

I've been restoring my 68 Coronet and enjoy the challenge. Now I'm moving on to my trunk lid and would appreciate advice/insights from those who've gone before me. As you can see from the pictures, there's significant rust-through in the back corners, the latch area, and the back. I've already...

Yes it does!!!

Jimbo! My man. I PMed you. THANKS! Terry

Plus $15 shipping..... I think I'll try another way (maybe a Ford boot) or wait until I go to Carlisle this summer....