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I was using a 0.040" gasket and my plan now is as you say. Grind for clearance and check with the heads on. The 0.040" gasket puts me at 9.95:1 static compression and 8.06:1 dynamic (if i used the calculators right). We have both 95 and 98 octane gas here so i think it will work well.

Thanks for the feedback all. I will take the advice to grind off a little in the heads so i ordered this die grinder: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/makita-gd0800c-high-speed-die-grinder-750w-240v-p4060 wich will hopefully do the job and for the saved money with buying regular headgaskets its almost...

Anyone? It would be good to know if the thicker gasket is the way to go.

Garys1969RR: I tried with the modeling clay but since the hole in the headgasket is bigger than the cylinder it was hard to see properly. The pistons do extend above the block about 0,5mm or 0,02" and the gasket is 1mm/0.04" compressed thickness so that leaves 0,5mm/0,02" clearence at best...

I had a look with the boroscope but couldnt see anything in the 3 cylinders i checked, not easy to see with a cheap boroscope and im guessing it only hits very little so i vill pull the heads off and have a look. At the same time i will check the pushrod length, can i buy just one mechanical...

I used the Fel-Pro Head 8519PT1 wich should be .040" compressed thickness. Guess i need to have a look with the boroscope tomorrow and see if i see any hitmarks.

Have a look here Hemi rebel: http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?50618-Help-please-are-these-pistons-mounted-correct Sad story hehe.

snakeoil24: The clearance between valves and pistons is ok, considering they didnt crash with the pistons mounted 180 degrees wrong they should have lots of space now. Piston to cylinder head might be the culprit, when i was mounting the cylinder heads i tried without the gasket and then...

It runs great, the noise has (as far as i can tell) been there since this spring when i had to pull it apart and rotate the pistons due to a sub-par enginebuilder (i made a thread about that).

Hello, i have this strange noise in my 512 cui. stroker. It has a 440source strokerkit but due to a limited budget the heads and valvetrain is original for now, the cam and lifters are new comp cams and also the valvesprings are new. So, the problem is i hear a kinda "dieseling" sound from...

Doctordiff aka. Cass Eslick. Very fast to respond on questions and fast deliverys with high quality parts at a good price. Im very satisfied buying from him. - - - Updated - - - Doctordiff aka. Cass Eslick. Very fast to respond on questions and fast deliverys with high quality parts at a good...

You need special nuts that are longer, Mancini racing have them as a kit http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mabenexmafak.html or you can buy them separately.

Problem solved. It was not sparkplug related at all but an erratic rpm signal from the Hall effect crankshaft sensor due to unsheailded cable, to big airgap and a missing pullupresistor. It sure ran good now compared to last year :)

Forgot to mention that, i pulled plug 1 and 2 for a quick check. 1 was a bit wet from gas and 2 looked kinda ok for idling but a hint dark/hint of gas.

Hi all, i just started up my Dodge after correcting the whole mess with erraticly mounted pistons (see thread here: http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?50618-Help-please-are-these-pistons-mounted-correct ) The engine is a 400-512 stroker with about 9,6:1 compression...

Thanks for the info guys :-)

Hi, i am about to measure for my new driveshaft wich is going in my -65 Coronet and im wondering how far to push in the slide yoke before backing it out 1 inch? I would say push it in so it lightly touches the dust boot and then out 1 inch (see arrow in the pic). And as far as i know the...

Hi, the engine is assembled and mounted in the car. Now i have to check the angle before final tightening so i get it right for the new driveshaft and rearaxle centersection.

I had that problem too but in a -65 coronet with 400" engine. Even with the correct enginemounts and polylocs the draglink touched the oilpan (deep sump from 440source), however i have both a 1/4" girdle and a windage tray so that puts the oilpan lower. My solution was to gently hammer the pan...

Does anyone know the tightening torque for the connection rod bolts? It is the H-beam rods from 440source with 7/16" ARP 8740 190,000 PSI bolts. I dont have the documentation left (if there was any). Thanks.