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Do you have a local locksmith? Those are a pretty common and universal item. If not, a scrap yard?

To add fuel to the fire, it would be cool if you had it wired into a rpm window switch. Hit a certain rpm and the door would open. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-830452

Probably a bit different than my charger but Greg nailed it for my process. My tray slid just under my rear window trim, under my sail panel edges, and is held in with the back seat.

Rallye dash?

I'm assuming it's the resistor but I'll reach out to you guys first. Factory ac car but all underhood parts are gone. I just hooked up my heater lines and the core is solid. Now the conundrum, on vent, ac and max ac the blower works on high and low. Switch to heat or Def, no air. All my vacuum...

With much fear of wiping a lobe (I know it's bad juju to start and stop an engine during cam break in) I fired her back up tonight. She lit first go and ran like a champ. No chatter so I have a feeling the cam is ok.

Well, she lit as soon as the fuel hit the bowls. And then I had to shut it down because the alternator is locked up. Just can't win sometimes.

I'll have everything buttoned up here shortly, thank you for the insight.

Well, ive got the new cam in and it's 1* from the ICL on the card. That's dot to dot. Just to verify my math, my work, abd my process I went ahead and checked it with the 3 way crank gear. Each time I was sitting 1* of the 4* advance/ retard. Doug, I don't know what I did that first day but I've...

Elaborate? Also, I'm re degreeing the cam right now. Specs to follow. - - - Updated - - - Can you elaborate on this? - - - Updated - - - Doug, you were 100% correct. I just finished up. This time going from the lifter not the valve. Intake is 8/30 exhaust 44/10 203/213 duration.

I don't have a leg to stand on, so before going any further I'm going to re check all my numbers.

Doug, I appreciate the help. Tdc was verified on the dampner via piston stop. Tdc was also verified before degreeing. Typo on my part it is the 942. I am not one to throw parts at an issue, I'd be interested to hear what you feel was inaccurate.

Just pulled the cam, it's an Elgin e-924p http://www.competitionproducts.com/mobile/Elgin-Hyd-Flat-Tappet-Cam-Chry-BB-421_444-112-LC/productinfo/E942P/ The timing set was a melling s366/67

Went ahead and ordered a purple 268/284

You are correct on the factory lift. Everything looks fresh, timing set has minimal wear, I'll be interested to see what the cam says once its out.

Suggestions? 346 heads, offy 360 intake, full exhaust. I am not looking for a racecar, actually far from it. I need a car that mama can get in a go, she refuses to drive my stroked and blown mustang. AND with all that said, the car needs a lot more than a hot motor, so my budget is pretty...

If I was to mess with the cam timing by jumping a tooth or two I could try to land somewhere around 20* btdc, 58* bbdc on intake and 111*atdc, *65 btdc on exhaust. - - - Updated - - - That should be around 51* intake center line - - - Updated - - - I'm leaning towards pulling the cam...

Well, at 1.5 the lift would be .319/.322 I/E Based on the rest of the information, is it even worth trying to dial this cam in? - - - Updated - - - And yes, all measurements at .05

So here's a sketch of my valves. Sorry for the chicken scratch, maybe you guys can help me decipher this. It's OBVIOUS that the cam is off, if the stocker opened up intake 21* btdc and I'm 41* behind that power curve. Stock cam has 38-46* of overlap compared to ny 8?

Ok, took me a while because I had to fab up all the equipment to Get this done but here are the numbers. Bear with me, this is my first time degreeing a cam. But I made sure to triple check all numbers. Tdc was measured via piston stop. Intake opens 20* atdc closes 162* bbdc Exhaust opens 154*...