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I had a 440 block with a maltese cross on it. The cross was to signify .010 under spec.

I would leave the fender 383 badges alone. I can attest to the fact that back in the day of these vintage muscle cars, whether it be a Mopar or GM, engine swaps were very common. One example is a chevy SS with 396 badges that really has a beefed up 427. I agree with those who say to leave it...

My first car was a Chrysler 300, 440 TNT. Unsure regarding the stamping on the block machine pad, but it did have the smaller valves and dual exhaust. My car from college, a 67 GTX, 440 Super Command does have the C 440 HP stamping with 915 heads (I still have it). Our family also had a 65...

The rats look like they've done a pretty good job of what they do.

My first car was a 66 Chrysler 300 w/440TNT.

I ran the 509 cam in my 67 440 using a TM7 manifold and the factory 4327S AFB carb. I didn’t have to go too far away from stock metering rods and/or adjustments.

I would think as long as it’s the correct date letter for that year. Consider a vehicle with a factory replacement engine under warranty. I was lucky to find a replacement engine out a salvage car of the same year and model as my 67 GTX,(C 440 HP w/915 heads and 4327S AFB $200.00

I just pulled the springs from my 67 GTX 440 auto with the same numbers

This worked great for me. Transported in town and highway for a good 50 miles. No damage or movement in truck bed.

This worked for my 67 440

The spare in my 67 GTX was a Goodyear 7.75x14 redline.

If any part of your exhaust system (ie...a hanger/strap, anything metal) is actually touching somewhere around the floorboard area, you've created a complete sound system for the inside of the cabin area. It's the same as taking a simple tuning fork and placing it on top of an upright piano...

When my 67 gets to that point during the restoration I'll have to look for anything similar. Yes, we do need a Cool! button.

I’ve had a torque converter go south on me. It made for very little throttle response at lower rpms regardless of speed. The other comments regarding linkage adjustments and/or overlap sound to be most likely.

Not only is a necessity but make sure you install the correct temp. thermostat for your geographical region. I believe the temp.# is stamped in the center.

In the 80s' my 67 GTX (440) was my daily driver. I used the 3:23, 3:55, and 3:91 sure grips for highway, cruising and drag racing. For street and occasional highway trips the 3:55 is a good fit for all around performance with your tire size.

I drilled a hole through the top of the diver side frame rail and installed a sturdy size eye-bolt. Then attached to a front bolt of the block (440) with an matching size turn-buckle to the eye-bolt. This set up gave me the flexibility to adjust it slightly loose for daily driving, then less...

I ran my 67 440 (DC-292/509) set up with a 6-pack, then the 750afb (4327S) re-jetted and metered on a TM7 manifold. The 6-pack turned a lot of heads but the performance went to the single carb. I often thought about the possibility of running dual 4s (i.e.. 2x750afbs)???

Use a like product or if possible more of the same to losen up the surface material and only be as aggressive as needed. I might start off using a cotton rag for absorption, then finish with the microfiber towels.

I believe i have what you need if still needed. Wes