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If your ballast is gutted, you can run the pink wire to the run/crank side.

Welcome from NM. Looking forward to seeing updates.

Pertronix recommends their Flamethrower coils.

Gut it, solder in a wire, re-install. I epoxied mine after I was done otherwise the wires moved around.

I have spare switches, bulbs, fasteners and an nos 69 GTX grill. I don't think I can afford spare sheetmetal or trim. I have random parts and pieces.

Send it back. New ones are junk. If yours ever needs replacing, get nos.

1968 Plymouth fitment.

Part number?

I have two Pertronix units, a II in my Belvedere and a III in my GTX. The II is around 9 years old. The III is 7 years old. No issues from either of them. I wouldn't go back to points.

Finished up my gutters. And cleaned up a paratrooper badge I got in the mail today.

I guess I'm old school. I have an old chrome Sears timing light and a tach/dwell meter I use to check advance.

440 .040" over, stock stroke. 10.2:1 Using a stock distributor with Pertronix III, welded up my advance plates to get my advance. 21° initial 37° total All in around 1500 rpms Runs great on 88 pure gas.

Car Show yesterday.

Corroseal is a fine water based rust converter. Load it up in a cheap pressurized sprayer and get it into the nooks and crannies. Once cured it turns black. I've used it on parts on my cars, exterior bumper brackets, frame rails, etc and it has held up fine.

I used Wanda base/SPI clear. It's good paint. AkzoNobel is the parent company. They also make single stage in U-Tech which I used for ermine white on my 62. Holds up very well.

I can't see your picture but my first thought is modify the bracket to work.

Wow, that looks fantastic!

Washed the X in I don't know how long, cleaned the glass and bumpers. We have a car show cruise tomorrow and car show Saturday.

Every year regardless.