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I got it put together. It was a U channel weatherstrip. They are expensive for what they are. If I remember correctly--remove the rubber from the top of the wing track, remove the window (don't forget to detach the connection at the bottom), install the U channel, slide the window back into...

I went through this last year. After adjusting torsion bars, start the car, put it in gear, drive backward and forward several feet (I think I moved about 20-30 feet). I did it twice for good measure. You have to give all of the moving suspension parts the opportunity to return to normal...

I was starting to think no way that clip went inside that seal. My job just got simpler. Thanks:-) I’ve got a photo—now I just have to slide the clip in and I’m done, yes?

Any tips how to get that little C clip inside that seal and inside this adapter? It’s off a 66 Belvedere big block with 727.

Where in Ohio are you?

I need 2 stock style steel wheels for a '66 Belvedere II. The ones with the larger inner diameter for dog dish caps to match the wheels on the car now. Preferably someone fairly close--I'm in NW Indiana. **They measure 7” overall width, 5x4.5” bolt pattern.

Good luck, man! If I learn anything that fixes mine, I'll post an update.

I don't know if they they were road-force balanced. I know it has its benefits, but I've seen significant tire issues visible on a spin balancer too, so who knows?

UPDATE: Took the drive shaft in to be re-balanced. U-joints are good. Spline is good. Balance was off a little bit. They moved the front weight and the shop said it was running smooth on the machine. Put it on the car--it's running smoother below 60 (I thought it was good before), but the 60+...

Any variation is going to lead to a different sound. Age of the pipe, manufacturer of the pipe, if one pipe is worn (been driven) more than the other, X vs. H pipe, mandrel vs. shop bent, any tiny variation in the engine, exhaust hangers, hanger location, proximity of the pipe to the body (car...

Yeah, I’m leaning toward having it checked. It’s easy enough to remove.

Yep, both weights are still on it and completely intact.

U joint Center to center is 51”.

Is that tool required if I remove the extension housing on the car?

1966 Belvedere II 361, 727 automatic.

I've been chasing a high speed vibration--it starts about 60 mph and stays there up to 80 mph. If you throw it in neutral at that speed, the vibration stays. New tires, all balanced, rebuilt front end and aligned. Transmission mount was toast and has been replaced. Vibration remains. I pulled...

This original sales brochure has me thinking it was meant to sit level front and back.

Visually, I could care less when deciding where to set my ride height--I just want it where it belongs for the best ride, etc. But for those who do, here is the ride height using the measurement from bottom of the steering knuckle arm where it meets the tie rod end, and the ride height using the...

And the difference in height between the point just below the ball joint to the floor (where Service Manual photo shows), and the bottom of the arm at the tie rod end to the floor (where the written part says to go), is 3/4”. Hmmm.

The term “adjusting blade” had both me and my dad—who has farmed 50 years & seen a lot of repair manuals—perplexed. I figure somebody past/present/future had to be in the same spot & posted this. You raise another question: The repair manual Figure 2 photo shows the B measurement at the point of...