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Wax it as you did, but apply imperial hand glaze to get it perfect.
You can apply it in direct sunlight, it helps to see what your doing.
1 panel at a time. Wipe on a good layer, then buff off with soft cloth.
It comes off very easy.
25 years painting cars it is the best "final step" there is.
Car is all assembled and kicking ***.
I used Brewers for the flywheel, clutch and all related parts. They really know their stuff.
Motor is a 1975 440 with whiplash cam, edelbrock intake, edelbrock 850 carb. Summit headers, 1975 A833 cast iron overdrive, 3:91 gears.
Reverse arm O-ring is...
The reverse arm O-ring is leaking. I did not mess with this when I installed the trans, it looked like you would have to pull gears out, and of course it's leaking now.
What Is involved in swapping this Oring ?
Thanks
I'd lop that front lip of the pulley right off. It's just a grabbing point for pulling the pulley off the pump, and saginaw pumps are pretty easy to find should you ever need another.
All fixed. Roasted the pinion bearing.
Replaced both pinion bearings and topped off with oil. Back on the road again.
Now getting these damn hideaway headlamps to function is another story
56 miles. Exactly 56 miles.!
Finaly hit the open road after hundreds of hours building this car. Put about 50 miles on a test drive with zero issues and put it away for the night all smiles.
Hopped back in for a quick blast at lunch and promptly sized the rear end in the middle of the road...
B-Body big block HP mainfolds. Left (2951865) & right (2806900)
No Flapper, welded and smoothed.
New Magnaflow 2.5" downpipes, ran once to break in camshaft.
New repro Spark plug boot protector shields.
All hardware inc.
I went with Headers.
Like to get 600.00 plus the shipping OBO
Thanks
67.
Wondering if anyone found another microswitch that can be swapped out. Lots of 5 dollar microswitches available. Might just hit the local YouDoIt electronics