Search results for query: *

*Update: My parts came in! Installed both the remanufactured alternator and new voltage regulator. That combined with the cleaned up engine bay grounds and this puppy is purring. Easier start, brighter dash lights, stronger blinker performance. Voltage drop tests come in the mV range as it...

So that's how that works, thanks Doug. Ill work on cleaning up the wiring and grounds while my parts come in. I found this grounding strap undone. Anyone know where it goes too?

Ah, thanks for the detailed explanation Bob. Yea like anything else in this car the regulator is looking pretty weathered. Now would be a good time to get it a nice shiny new regulator along w a new/refurbed alternator. I'll do some preventative maintenance on that bulkhead connector as long as...

Back, sorry to keep ya'all in suspense. I appreciate all the input, I'm reading it all even though I'm not commenting it! OK back on track, the results for the alternator test: I grounded the field spade (#1 in the photo) to the alternator case, with the engine running I jumpered the power side...

Let me know if I should still do the Which connector is the "field spade"? #2/purple lead? or #1/green lead?

I'm back. Thanks for all the input. Sorry about the delay, work had me up till the wee hrs of the night. Here are the results to my tests using a multimeter: At the battery + to - Engine off: 12.2v Key to "on" position: 11.2 Engine on: 11.2v w/ parking lights on: 11.64v w/ full lights on...

Thanks for reading through all that. I'll test it out and post readings tomorrow. Was leaning towards a ground problem because I used to have turn signal problems before but they went away after I re-tightened the screws that hold the signal markers to the bumper. This time I sanded the contact...

I'm running into some electrical gremlins that appeared all at once. My voltage readings drop to the "Discharge" range when I turn the parking lights on (light knob pulled out half way), and they drop big when headlights are turned on (light knob pulled out all the way). Turn signals are suuuper...

If you go to https://www.car-part.com/ and enter 1974 Charger 5.9L it'll give you every compatible 360 head at salvage yards around your area. Around me I can see a set of heads from an 1980 Dodge Truck for fitty bux each. If you're not that strapped on cash you can hunt for part grade "A" (low...

*Solved* I did some poking and prodding and eventually found out that the extra wire coming out of the battery positive went directly to the driver window switch. Once I found out which end belonged to which end I was able to pinpoint the break. The PO had a patchwork of about 3 different wires...

Ah yes, time for some voltage drop tests. For starters I'll try to run the switch with my own ground wire hook up and see if that does anything, if not I'll route a wire directly to the car battery and see if that does anything. Will mos def be adding an inline fuse if I'm going down that...

Hello all, My saggy old window switch finally gave out, I had a switch from a 79 Chrysler Cordova on standby for just this occasion. 74 and 79 switches have a different order but the color coding is still the same on the wires that lead to the window motors. I used my multimeter to figure out...

The lower control arms are supposed to be strictly press in ball joints according the the FSM. I was surprised when I saw threads on the old ball joint. Threads on these balljoints are so coarse and sharp they can bite into non threaded control arms like nothing. You do have to put something...

Woooo spooky chassis problems from the great unknown, woooooo :wetting:

I replaced the ball joints on my 74 Charger about 3 weeks back. I had the car on jack stands for about a week waiting on new brake calipers and hoses. After I buttoned everything down and torqued everything to spec I took it on a ride and heard some deep creaking coming from under the front of...

Everyday I'm husslin'. Kern Dog's probably looking at me the same way I look at those people that go around and pry the emblems off these cars. Stinkin' vultures! This is what I thought too. I was surprised when Hemi71X said 6 weeks, but hey, I deffer to the local expert. Doors, hoods, and...

I know this is a B body forum but I figured you Mopar mech heads know what the usual hard to find or easy to go through parts are. Saw a 71 Valiant at my local salvage yard, I didn't have time to pop the hood so I don't know the engine/transmission specs. Off the top of your Mopar head, what...

+1 for grounds. From time to time my right turn signal indicator, when I turn my lights on, will stay on. I have to go out and fiddle with the mounting screw on the marker cover. Such a tiny surface area to rely on for your ground no wonder people suggest running separate ground wires straight...

Good to know! I agree that i'll be back to the same problem eventually as the grease/lube is scraped to the side. I still have the old turn signal assembly I'll see how difficult it is to swap out the roller contact.

This replacement turn signal assembly came with a copper nub instead of a roller and the metal scuffing sound that comes from turning the steering wheel is finally getting to me. What do you guys recommend that will last the longest? A thick heavy grease like moly-b, marine grease, wheel...