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I’m not sure but I’s deffinitely not anything new. Looks like it could be original to the block or there about. So I guess that could be potential cause of my problems

Have not used a dial back. I have tried two different regular timing lights though. And they both give the same result. I have not checked chain yet. Only changed the diffrent ignition components as I wrote in my original post. The chain is only a few years old and does not have many miles on...

Lets say the springs are broken. Would that cause timing to jump around and retard? Wouldn’t that cause it to immediately go full advance and stay there?

As far as I remember nothing was changed. I just noticed it randomly checking timing . I have a couple of videos of it but can’t seem to post them here. And there is no good view into the dist. Just me wiggling the shaft back and forth and pulling up and down. I can get some pics next weekend

I think thats true. I’ve heard 0.5 degree per 1000 rpm is to be expected. But mine is jumping around and it’s retarding way more

Yea I guess that is a possibility. The plate feels to be quite firmly in place and it has worked without pulling timing before . But I’ll look into it

It acutally got rebuilt about two years ago. Had the dist out a few times and changed the advance springs since then. Advcanced nice and stable after last time the springs were changed. Then I just felt like checking timing a few months later and then this problem ocucurred.

No, I've got vacuum advance disconnected. The plate where the pick-up is mounted (the one wich the vacuum advance arm pulls on is not welded in place though.

To clear things up. It does advance to about 36 at about 1500-2000. Then it starts to retard. All this while its slightly bouncing.

Hi , I've got a problem with my timing beeing erattic when held at higher rpm then idle. The engine is a 440 and it's got stock electronic pick-up. I got about 10 degrees of advance and before the issues started it's all in somewhere between 1500-2000. Now, the only time that my timing seems...

I've heared some people say you shouldn't use long life type coolant in old copper/brass radiators. Any truth to that?

Yea the thought of exhaust has crossed my mind. The car Isn't smoking out the tail pipes. But the coolant sure went brown ish fast

I did use tap water. The coolant was somewhat rust coloured after about 2 months. Before that the radiator had ben sitting empty for about a year and a half. Flushed it about 1 year before that though Flushed it. Used about year, then sitting empty for about 1.5 Put on car with a reebuilt...

It sure looks waterish in the pictures. It’s 50/50 mix of this

Hi , I have someting floating around on my coolant. Its not solid pieces so I’m worried it might be oil. The oil dipstick looks fine though , no sign of anyting but engine oil What do you guys think?

I'm planning on avoiding any of the exterior parts as it's already has a decent paint job. Would probably need new quarters though If I wanna make it real nice someday. But for now I'm just trying to fix the necessary things to make it drivable and usable

Yea originally I wanted to get a full floor but realized that I won't be able to get it in without removing more than just the floor. I'm planning on getting a 2 piece from AMD. From what I understand they do have the best fitting pans right?

Ok tanks! I was suspecting that I maybe was unnecessarily worrying. But I better safe than sorry I figured Thank you guys!

Hi, I'm replacing my trunk pan and I have a few questions. I've never done this kind of thing but would like to learn as I go. I'm worrying about how I should best support the car so that the rear doesn't get missaligned I'm only removing the main pan. The quarters, trunk extensions, valence...