Search results for query: *

The timing can go as high as 50* with vaccuum advance when cruising (not on the throttle). 38* is good at WOT, but there is no vaccuum at that point.

Thanks, that worked for me. I have removed the lens....now to polish it. Did you use a sanding block for wet sanding, or just your fingers?

The upper pivot on the right vent window is broken. I found an nos one, but it didn't include the little shaft that fits into the chrome frame. Is that suppossed to be a part of the frame? See photos.

I am restoring the instrument cluster in my 1967 Satellite. Does anyone know how to remove the lens so I can polish or replace it? It looks like there are plastic rivets that are melted at the top to hold it in place.

You might already have this figured out...I just rebuilt the bucket seat tracks on my 1967 Plymouth Satellite, so I measured them. The outside track is exactly 1" higher than the inside track. That dimension is the same at the front and back of the track.

Not sure I agree with that. The alternator will easily put out 15 to 16 volts, which is normal. The regulator controls the voltage, so I would think you either have defective regulator(s), or perhaps a bad ground on the regulator or elsewhere in the charging system.

I mounted the coil on the inner fender, and the ignition box on the rad support (to keep it cool) behind the grille. 1967 Satellite 383.

Keep in mind that back when these were daily drivers, they ALWAYS ran at the rpm's you indicated. Having said that, the typical motor was ready for a rebuild by 100,000 miles. If you want to increase engine life and driving enjoyment for longer cruises, you can always spring for a gear vendors...

Along with adding a snubber, maybe check the pinion angle. If it can be pointed down a bit, you will gain a little room in there.

Af Reading through your blog, it looks like this is becoming a "money pit" project, with all the extras needed to complete the installation. Have you looked into the Silver Sport 4 speed auto conversion for '60's Mopars? They claim it includes everything you need without butchering your...

Put it on a hoist or axle stands with transmission in neutral. Put a chalk mark at the pinion end of the driveshaft (parallei to the driveshaft), and another chalk mark on the inside of one of the rear tires. Turn the tire, counting how many times it goes around for the driveshaft to complete...

If you want to be able to smoke the tires occasionally and still have an enjoyable ride, I would go with the 3:55s. However, the 3:23 is great for cruising and still provides some grunt on the street if you have a big block with a torque .cam. I owned a 68 hemi RR 4 speed for 46 years, running...

Maybe you should adjust your latch?

Sounds like an exhaust manifold leak to me. Have had a few of those over the years. Are you manifolds bolted on tight? Exhaust pipe bolts tight?

I have epoxy with flakes on the floor of my indoor pool. It still looks like new after several years. However, I wonder if it will be harder to clean with the flakes, as that makes the surface sort of wavy (something like really bad orange peel). Some have commented on it being slippery when...

Mopars have two 12 volt wires from the ignition switch. One supplies voltage when the key is in the crank position, and one when the key is in the run position. You need to connect both together (and bypass the ballast resistor) on the sniper system. That way the fuel pump will run as long as...

Typically 10 psi per 1,000 rpm is normal for a stock build. 190 - 200 degrees is also ok.

The mopar horn relay setup is as simple as it gets. Not sure why you would want to change it. Now if we are talking about the headlight wiring.... that's another story!

My '68 RM21xxx274085 was built on April 17, 1968. Lynch Rd. plant. Perhaps youcan narrow down your assembly date from that.

I would guess your coolant temperature gauge is not reading correctly. 110F (50C) is only luke warm, and will result in poor combustion. Should be around 190F - 200F.