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Did you by chance check the interior side of the bulkhead connector? When I bought my car the entirety of the engine bay wiring was all new, but connected to the original wiring inside the cabin. Same thing happened to me- driving fine one second and completely dead the next. Let it sit a few...

Crap..I just send them my 383 in November. Fingers crossed I don't go through this nonsense too.

Found one, disregard found one, thanks for the replies guys!

For 68 Super Bee - NO cracks or repairs, heat riser not needed, dirty ok

Fluid level is good, I had the transmission rebuilt so everything is good there, runout was checked on the input shaft and that was ok too.

Time to resurrect this thread…Supershafts, I put a 3º shim in the rear, it changed the vibration rpm window from 2800-3400 rpm to 2400-2600 rpm…so it comes in earlier and goes out earlier..does this make any sense at all? Smooth as glass before and after as before.

I had a similar issue w my '68 super bee. Wouldn't start when it was hot and the fuel could actually be heard running back into the tank when I shut it off, draining the fuel filter. Turned out the genius that had the car before me half a$$ed the trunk floor repair, pinching the fuel tank vent...

http://drivetraindynamics.com I've used this guy twice, once for a rear end and once for a 833 rebuild. He's good and honest and will keep you up to date on the work. Highly recommended. His name is mike.

yes the black one with the fiberglass - like insulation

Dennis do you have the insulation piece on the bottom of the hood or no? - - - Updated - - - Are you going by measurements or have you tried this actual setup?

In a 68 super bee? - - - Updated - - - in what car?

Will an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake fit on a 383, edelbrock 750 cfm carb with a stock air cleaner in a 68 super bee without hood clearance issues? Thanks, I can only find info on the clearance issue with 440's

Sry maybe I'm not reading this right...do you mean 3 or 4 degree or 3/4 of a degree as in .75? Lol that why I said start w the 1 degree.

Thanks. I only have 1,2&3 deg ones so I'll try the 1deg and see what it looks like. I have no idea how much they actually wrap up under acceleration. With a totally stock setup is it normal to ever have to correct the angle? Maybe the springs are tired and allow it to move more than usual...

Ok. I have the mopar wedges, think I should just go straight to the 3º or go in little increments?

So you're saying to lower the rear right? It's tough to get a good pic of the slip yoke area up front but it's pretty much level/up just a hair.

Yesterday I was finally able to get the car on a lift and the pinion angles are within about one degree of each other..all the mounts look good and are tight. I've attached some pics so if anyone sees something obvious please chime in. One thing I did find was there is some play in the...

Ok thanks for the help. I found a 6 1/4 and 7 3/8 long snubber, looks like they would both fit..one almost covers the U joint, the other would go past it

Anyone know the length of a stock pinion snubber for a '68 b body? I found a few used ones but they come in two diff lengths

It's the mopar performance adjustable pinion snubber. What does a stock one look like? If I search all I can find is the mopar one and another that Mancini sells that you can rotate up or down. Do you think I should just try to level up the transmission and leave everything else alone?