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You never can tell what is marketing or tech articles that might be disguised as marketing. I just use the oil recommended by shops that build, break-in, and warranty their engines. I don't need any information beyond what is actually working for the people who do it day after day.
Thanks for the reply :thumbsup:. Very interesting.
For me, there is not much cooling effect on the axle when you are running a 100 degree day and have a large front spoiler to reduce drag and lift. The sucker gets hot without a cooler.
The Silver State is 90 miles and the axle does get quite...
Baffles are interesting. Where did you get that idea?
I agree that it's better to weld on a bung or something other than just relying on the the threaded thickness of the housing. It would not take much effort to strip the threads.
Here is my 8-3/4 modified with a cooler and temp gauge.
Its a crap shoot. You just have to look at it. Some are ready for a 4 speed, some not drilled at all, and some are drilled but not reamed to bushing size for the trans input shaft.
Mild vibrations can be tricky. You have sure covered the bases chasing this down. A few ideas:
You didn't say if the vibration is specific to 2800-3200 rpm in all gears, but with everything you have been through I would (1) wonder if the engine was performance balanced?
(2) I once had an issue...
Hi gents - A short quiz.
I have three of these things that need homes. Comparing, they are the same as the one in my 72 Big Block Charger. Any idea what other engines or bodies they will interchange with? I am guessing the same for small block and E body?
Thanks.
If you want to try and upgrade to a stout aluminum shaft, try Denny's Driveshafts. They are an awesome upgrade and will build a driveshaft off your exact specs.
Buying used is always a little bit of a crap shoot, especially if you don't know hoe to read the wear. Check to make sure the "hit" is not just your U-joints. Otherwise, I'll be the contrarian and say that at 1000 miles per year of use, another alternative is to just keep driving it.
I ordered a 2-groove crank pulley and I have a large selection of water pump pulleys that match my other non-AC big blocks. I guess we'll see how the pulley on the PS pump works out. Good thing I have all winter to get it done.
An easy one....
Subject is a complete stock 69 440 with AC set up. I am putting the engine in a car without AC. I know I need to change the crank and water pump pulley and alternator brackets. Will the AC power steering pump bracket work or do I need to change that too?
I have everything...
I'm just here to see what "barring ware" is, and if I needed any. I did a Google search and the only hit brought me right back here. It must be quiet a rear thing.
There is is minor adjustment in loosening all the motor mount bolts, prying the engine over, holding it there and retightening the bolts. This will not effect anything substantially, but don't expect to gain much either. Sometimes it can be just enough to keep things from rattling. I would try...
Yes, most likely driveshaft balance or u-joint issue. A driveshaft shop can check the balance and straightness of the driveshaft for you. It can also be driveshaft angles if they are sufficiently out of whack.