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Interesting to hear about the suspect new orange boxes. I run nothing but MP electronic systems on all my cars and have never had one go down in 40+ years. If one does go down, I guess I'll be grabbing an old orange box off the shelf.

Miloden makes great stuff, however I have taken out two Miloden 7 qt deep pans. Don't think it can't happen. If you street drive your car hard enough and often enough, it's a risk. You can't control the road, debris, etc. Drag racers operate in a controlled environment and are more likely to get...

72 is when electronic ignition started hitting. My Charger came with it stock. I prefer the simplicity of the stock-type electronic system. If your car is not a race car you do not need to waste money on MSD. The MP distributor is only about $140 ....It's inexpensive and cheap and easy to...

The relay is only for front headlight doors. The brake light switch is a plunger switch that is attached to your brake pedal under the dash, but since you just rewired it... I'd start with the rear harness. Make sure you are grounded.

Make sure car is in Park. Turn key to run position. Jump the two terminals on the rely. If cranks, relay is probably bad or connection loose. If no crank, could be lots of things.

If you want to, you can re-index the distributor by removing it, using a long flat screwdriver to back out the intermediate shaft and shifting it over a tooth or two.

Ya I did miss that one non-committal sentence.

Except that Ebooger is writing about ported vac advance vs no vac advance at all. Not really relevant to this debate.

We need to know what ignition you are using.... points, MP electronic, etc. I assume you are using a Mopar starter relay and a push button to start? A quick Google search on "race car wiring" will get you a lot of info.

There is no big fuse panel like you are used to seeing in later cars. Maybe this will help? http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=26