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I have to ask are you sure you have all the air bled out of he system ? With the cap off at idle are you seeing a good return flow ? Are the hoses new ? Could have a pressure hose collapsing or chunks of return hose in the sector ? Possible worn parts in both those pumps. When you said...

Many of the older federal and trw pumps have a filter screen in the return line tube on the pump. It's possible it may need cleaned. Most of those pumps hold up great as long as they are not ran dry. But I guess it is possible the pump is getting tired. Check for a screen though.

Check your pump bracket, Some of the early 60s ones are self adjusting bracket. You may need a new belt if you have that style.

Once you get it pulled I would make a few calls local and see if you can find a shop to rebuild/ re seal it. I know napa stocks the o rings and seal kits for my 67 anyway. A shop that does hydraulic work , cylinders/ pumps ect.

When your buy your SAE socket and wrench set you may also want to add a set of line wrench,s 1/4" through 9/16"

7" to 8" , your axle tube is 3" 8s you will prob end up cutting little off when done. Make sure the inside of the tube concave is flat were it rides on the tube. Some of the cheaper ones are round and makes it easy to dent the tube. Don't go nuts with the impact it's pretty easy to dent the tube.

I have seen a new KYB rear shock do the same. I put a full set of NAPA shocks on my 67 10 years ago, They still pass the ride and jounce test. Not sure who supplied NAPA back then.

Ok, you guys that want to mix. Grab a pickle jar or any small glass jar and pour a inch of DOT 3 in it. Now pour a inch of 5 in. Stir it up and go back later and check it out.

Use what the manual or cover lid calls for. Do not mix brake fluid types.

If you are packing your new bearings with regular non synthetic grease and you did not have a bearing ( grinding or in pieces) You can take a couple shop rags and wipe out that cavity and replace with new grease. If you had bearing fail you will want to completely flush and clean the inner hub...

My 440 is a 1976 year cast crank engine so it has the large oem balancer.

At least the spindles survived.

I have one grandkid out of 5 who is interested in my 67. He is 12 now and still loves helping me work on anything. My own 2 kids are 40s and were raised knowing how to start & operate $500 cars and pickups lol. There is hope yet. New cars........ I am 1 month away from hanging up my paint...

That is most likely what my great grandad thought watching the 1st car he ever seen while he was sitting on his horse.

As long as you have all new lines both steel and rubber, bench bled the master cyl. Your just going to have to loosen fittings, lines and see at what point your fluid is stopping. Is your push rod throw long enough ? Use your bench bleed tubes and see if you have good flow on the car. ( cover...

You dont by chance have the long and short shoes turned around on that axle?

Looks good, nice pics. Glad you got it installed, I've got no complaints on my set, Now to get my engine back together , lol.just got back home today.

Hi Mike, Here is a picture of what I had to do to get mine lined up. (It is a repop bracket) and saginaw pump. You can see the spacer I made behind the bracket. There is another on the bottom also. 440 engine no AC.

Pull the hubs , remove seal , bearings, grease, ect. Clean and dry. Now on the back side of the hub grind off the head of each stud. Take 2 blocks of wood to support the hub. Take a punch and hammer. Drive the studs out the front. New studs can be pressed in or if you do not have a press use a...

Just curious, how do the rotors and pads check out ? We have seen 2 different pad thickness in the same box. But no , I have not measured any piston length.