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I remember as a kid in 1977 waiting for the bus on cold mornings… a guy in the neighborhood got a brand new AMC Matador 4 door. Probably a 360 or a 304. The exhaust sounded like a whooshing tube when he’d pull out, and the smell of rotten eggs was awful. Interestingly, acid rain was a thing that...

I remember back in the 80’s taking my Charger to Sears to get an emission sticker. I had the 2 1/8” Black Jack headers on it to 12” Thrush flange mount mufflers. I had an exhaust shop send the pipes out the side similar to the T/A, AAR. Since it had no H pipe, it was only testing 4 cylinders. I...

I’m having a hard time finding the right size vacuum hose for distributor advance and vacuum pull off on the choke. I think it’s 3/16, but Autozone doesn’t have it. Am I wrong on the size? All they seem to have is fuel line which is much thicker.

The NHRA factored the 440 Six Pack at 450HP.

Another thing that helps an off idle stumble, I knocked out the lead plugs in the outboard carbs and turned the idle screws out a half turn. That was on factory OEM carbs. They were shipped lean to meet emission standards. I should add I was running headers on both cars.

You could always run a regulator. My problem was fuel starvation at WOT. The electric pump cured that. I even opened up the metering plates as per the DC Manual. Yellow springs I think. This was back in the 80’s with no internet. So many guys gave up on the Six Pack because it had been tuned...

That set up was recommended in the DC Engine Manual. I have it on both my Charger and ‘Cuda. It doesn’t need a regulator. Like I said in a previous post, it was about 8 psi at the carbs, after the vapor separator and filter. The electric pump is just pushing it up to the mechanical pump. I’m...

I ran an electric into the Carter mechanical on my Six Packs and had about 7-8 psi at the carb fuel line. You might want to put a gauge on to varify. I also used the factory metal vapor separator, and ran the return line.

For the timing, I use 10 degrees BTDC. And 32-35 full advance at 2800 RPM.

Yes. Pull the site plug one at a time, and adjust til the fuel is just dripping out. It’s been a while but, the metering block screws on the side of the center carb should be turned in til they lightly seat, and then backed out 1 1/4 turns. Adjust the float levels with the car idling. If you...

Check your float level.

That’s kool! But I’d put a piece of electrical tape on the tip. :thumbsup: :D

Because it’s a better design not having the hot oil splashing up on the intake runners. The Chrysler B/RB engines are also a dry intake. No coolant running thru them.

The DC manual recommended the electric pump with the mechanical pump to alleviate high RPM starvation. It also eliminates vapor lock.

I ran 50/50 in the 80’s in my ‘Cuda 440-6. But... I have been daily driving a slightly warmed ‘68 273 in my wagon, and the stock 383 in my 4 door. And while I haven’t had the 383 apart, I did pull the heads on the 273. I didn’t see any exhaust valve recession into the head. Has anyone else seen...

I put an electric fuel pump on both my 440 Six Pack engines. I used it with the Carter mechanical as per the DC manual. Never a problem. Mine are 1970, so the bowl vent goes to the atmosphere, and the return line goes into the tank.

Those poor mechanics that had to service them back in the day. They probably bolted for a GM shop.:)

A dual snorkel I believe with the squared off ends and vacuum doors.This one here. I think the 440 4bbl. was only available in the Superbird. The GTX would have had the 440 standard. The 383 Road Runner in ‘70 had the same air cleaner.

Thanks. My ‘70 Charger has the “wrong” intake manifold. It’s the aluminum version without the “CH6”. I’m OK with that. My ‘Cuda has the “right” cast iron one... it weighs a ton!

When did the “CH8” appear on the drivers side heat crossover? This one has it, so it must have been soon after A12 production.