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That is typical of what I experienced since the 70s with melling high volume pumps, I would not be happy with what you have either. It could just need a stiffer spring or the 440 source adjustable oil pump relief plug replacement. Fwiw my hellcat idles at 65-70 cold 45 at 212, 65-70 on the...

You would think on a big block it would be pretty hard with only one cam bearing feeding oil, unless the cam is grooved. Stock pan and thick oil maybe.

I would not worry too much about pumping the pan dry with a big block and shaft rockers. Powell machine has a u-tube video debunking this for most engines. Even with bearing clearance at .002 I could never get by with a standard pump....you need about 10 psi per thousand rpm. I would not leave...

Follow their instructions, it also says to remove the restrictor in the front clutch apply if the rpm flares on the 2-3 shift. Follow the instructions and adjust from there.

Never do the reverse slam, Mopars had an issue, when you warrantyitems you find a fix, it happens more after the shift kit and a tighter converter. Putting a Mopar in reverse was known as experiencing a "direct connection" by trans shops around here. Anyway the transgo fix will help.

Rear bands break all the time in plow trucks around here, my own snapped just starting the truck and putting it in reverse cold, and it was a mopar band. It did have the high pressure relief drilled 1/8", and the pressure was set to the heavy duty step 1-5/16". The drilling of the servo was...

Thank you, perfect year for me. Had the tool and it got lost at a machine shop. Going to make copies and laminate them to give to machine shops around here. Things are getting so far off.

Those that say it will not hurt anything are wrong, with high line pressures in reverse it will break the ear off the band, fold over the little link, blow the lip seal and break the band linkage. I like the fix transgo sent you. We used to make that hole 1/8" and drill a 1/16" hole in the rear...

Thanks for this, would you happen to have the big block specs?

Good catch^^^^

For the record, their is no such thing as too big of a carb if the motor is sharp. Ran an 850 on a single plane on a 340 with zero response issues.

Almost sounds like a micky mouse valve job where they sank the valves and did not equalize the stem heights, so the valves do not close properly causing poor performance if it has a stock cam and lifters. Maybe do a compression test.

Correct, B and E bodies have that for sure. I found that out when having a few shortened and ruined.

Cooler line is the way to go if you must, no worries as that pressure is lower than line pressure, and is a fantastic way to change your fluid.

I think the factory was 100% perfect with the centerline because of the way they finish machined the hole, parallel could still be off. The problem comes in when the bell is removed or changed for another, or even careless mechanics that get dirt/caked grease/sand between the bell and the block...

No they were not designed that way from the factory. You are forgetting the needle bearings at the rear of the input shaft, it will destroy the output shaft bearing surface in short order if it is that far out. From the factory they were perfect, and the service manual calls for .008 max. I have...

The dowels get pushed deep in the block at machine shops, or in storage when the block is stood on its backside and moved around.

The thicker and more solid the flex plate is, sfi stuff, the more likely it will crack if the trans is misaligned, and wear the front pump bushing and convertor hub.

Is it possible your voltage drops enough at idle after a long drive and everything gets good and hot to cause this, maybe hook up a voltmeter and see.

More timing at idle, a less duration cam, a manual transmission, or a custom ordered torque converter that does not drag the engine down so much at idle.