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Yes you need a mid depth socket like an s&k, 1/4" drive or ground down 3/8" and it still sucks to do.

One of those oem tools brand cheap bleeder kits has hard plastic nipples that you push in the bleed hole and it extends out about a 1/2" then hooks to your bleed tube leaving enough room for a wrench. I use those on replacement wheel cylinders that have metric bleeders, and kinda for everything...

They used to sell a special bleeder wrench for those. Look on ebay, quite a few there and some snap-on stuff cheap. A deep drop snap on box wrench works also. I mention snap on because there is a 1/4" one on ebay cheep.

I think he means it is easier for him to drive one handed, not that the steering arm takes less effort.

One thing to watch out for is the flat tabs on the shoe where is sits on the backing plate, some new sets have really narrow tabs or just a v stamped in the edge that can cause problems. Look at the pictures and compare the tabs before you order or turn your cores in.

These guys can do it.

Scale ticket for my 340 4-speed power brake power steer with a/c cuda with about 150# of stereo if you think e-bodies are light.

Drum brake E-body and a disc brake C-body

As an example only a scat pack challenger with standard 4 piston brembos and 245 tires does 60-0 in 117 ft, at 4200lbs or so. The 6 piston 275 or 305 tire cars are better but I don't have the specs. Hellcats with 6 piston do 70-0 in 155 ft. at 4655 lbs.

They are right, every bushing should be tightened at ride height. Cars should also never be stored with the wheels just hanging for the same reason. Kyb shocks are not that bad with radials and normal tire pressures, they are not race shocks but get sure a bad rap. Dual adjustable vikings are...

Save your old parts, all the new stuff is made in China even the raybestos. You can have the original master and wheel cylinders sleeved and rebuilt some day if needed. Not cheap but at least you have a core.

Muscle Car Research sells the o-ring kit for those and says to soak the parts in ammonia. He has how to articles on his site.

I am saying if you crash and someone gets hurt it could be a legal issue.

I agree it will need more pressure, a front brake hold off valve as way to get the rears on slightly ahead of the fronts to transfer weight, and once it will skid either an adjustable proportioning valve. How to get the pressure up is the hard part. I would not gut or eliminate the warning light...

I bet your car is stopping better than it was, if you end up leaving it alone at least test it in a wet parking lot....the last thing you ever want to have happen is the rears to lock before the fronts in the rain on the road.

Correct, just got back from Radford school. They taught us how to brake just on the edge of abs with redeye hellcats. One other thing is transfering the weight to the front before you turn. I will say this, the hellcats have incredible brakes in every way. The brakes are what make that car fast...

It would be interesting to see if it would lock either end on wet pavement. Rear drums do work well because they self energize, needing less pressure, but they like to lock up in a panic stop, disc's make it easier to modulate the brakes. It is a bad feeling not to be able to lockup the brakes...

It adjusts bump steer, usually done at a dealer due to incorrectly welded k-frames.

About 5-3/8 between the eyes and .470 at the threads.

It is all in the first 5 posts.