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55 year old wiring, what could go wrong :lol:
I bought new harnesses for the Coronet Convertible. The corrosion in the bulkhead connect for the headlight circuit caused the crimp to heat up and become loose. Headlights would work for a few minutes, the contact crimp would heat up and loose...
I don't have issues with the distributor(s), they fire the CD ignitions just fine.
I'm actually running a factory lean-burn distributor with the Fi-Tech EFI on the Charger. No reason to spend $400 on the MSD distributor.
The intermittent ignition problem I had was really frustrating. I think part of the problem is how the Mopar ECU detects the pickup signal. I think ground look problems (differences in the ground voltage levels) messes up the ECU trigger level trying to sense the pickup signal. Basically, the...
I have had the issue where it runs fine once started, but usually only want to try firing when the key is released from the crank position.
I found my battery ground cable to the block was dropping voltage when loaded with the starter cranking the engine. Releasing the key, starter stops and...
You could try "Two battery" troubleshooting.
Disconnect the coil and ECU from the cars power and connect another battery positive to just the ignition ECU, coil (use ballast resistor if you want), and the negative to the engine block and ECU. Then use the original battery to crank the engine...
Question for those who used the aftermarket type wiring;
Did you use bulkhead connector and make plug-in harnesses, or just go directly to the lights, ignition and such?
If you went direct, what was used as the firewall pass-through to protect the wires and seal the firewall?
When I did the Ron...
The factory reproduction harnesses from M&H (Year One) is usually the best option. It seems expensive up front, but includes all the correct connectors and dash / rear light sockets.
The higher end custom non-stock wiring kits are good if you want custom wiring and adding many extra features...
This should be a different thread, but that connector goes to the rear body harness - Left/Right Brake lights, reverse light, fuel sending unit, marker lights?
The ballast resistor does sound like the resistance is a bit low, but has no effect on the charging system.
"Replace points with electronics." Does this relate to the ignition system or the voltage regulator?
Trying to figure out if your using the 1968 style voltage regulator with the single...
I would start by disconnecting the alternator, and make sure the alternator output is not grounding. Then check if the alternator wire to the bulkhead is grounded/shorted.
If it is shorted, then disconnect the center bulkhead connector and re-check to see if short still exists in the engine...
Been using those for the last few years as a non-contact current meter, but just for testing, not mounted in the vehicle. They are a good value, not expensive.
Last year I spent the money on a new multi-meter that has the current sensing clamp
I haven't had that issue with the MP mini-starters, but I am making new starter cables for the Convertible (with headers), and got some of the silicone coated fiberglass "heat shield" type wire covering for the starter cables.
SGX wire is rated for 125 C (257 F), but I'm running the welding...
I didn't read the whole thread, but if you are having voltage drop issues (at the voltage regulator) because of the old wiring, I would power the regulator direct from the battery through a relay that is activated by the current voltage regulator power wire.
Still running an old 1990's MSD 6-AL. It is triggered on the points input with a Mallory Unilight Distributor.
Several years ago I thought it failed at the track after cooling off the radiator. Ended up that the magnetic pickup harness that I taped up had gotten some water in there and was...