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I know you fellas disagree, but I would brace it. After all, what could it hurt ?
These cars move around quite a bit with all of the sheet metal intact, let alone after you've cut some of it out.
You should be mindful of the condition of your paper when using a DA. It's far too easy to run the paper too long and actually end up polishing the part instead of giving it tooth.
Myself, I would have them blasted, run over them with a scotch brite pad to remove any left over media and then...
Putty knife and a heat gun. The undercoating is usually too thick and somewhat soft for blasting, at least dry blasting anyway, without using a ton of media.
The dustless method may work better, but like Mark said, it's makes a helluva mess.
Resto Rick sells a product that's pretty close, but bear in mind, distance from the work, air pressure and time in between coats play a huge factor in how it turns out.
https://www.restorick.com/proddetail.php?prod=Undercoat
Barry is top notch for sure.
Also, head over to the SPI forum if you haven't done so already. There is a wealth of information on tap and the participants are more than willing to help with any questions you may have.
Back in the day I used to use PPG DP90 which was good stuff at the time. When they took the lead out, I hunted around for something else and eventually settled on SPI and never looked back. Mark (eldubb440) painted my convertible for me and did a spectacular job, so I would trust his advice.
SPI all day. Not only do the offer a great product, customer support is awesome and the web board is full of hands on knowledgeable people. Listen to eldubb440, he know his ****. Ugly as a motherfucker, but he knows his ****.