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If you're going to do it, this is the way. The idea is to use the "good" sections of 1/4 on either side of your repair to level the filler to mimic the height and curve. Depending on how big your patch is, that gas cap might give you trouble.
I don't know about the lenses and bezels, but I have a pair of NOS fender bullits that I bought a few years back and contrary to what you may think they are not flawless. For $450 they damn well better be, but just because they are NOS Chrysler, don't bet on it.
I'll add that if you plan on driving the car in any weather, you should address the lip that's going to catch water and debris. From under the car, pack the area between the existing floor and the tunnel with seam sealer so that it sheds any water away.
The lock cylinder doesn't unscrew. You'll need the key to turn it either on or start (don't remember which) and on the side of the switch there is a small slot you'll need to insert a flat blade screwdriver into to depress the locking pin and release the cylinder.
It doesn't have to be down the middle. You can buy a one piece and cut it yourself so the seam falls directly over the frame rail. This way you lessen the chance of blow throughs when welding and you don't have to finish the seam on the bottom.
If it's installed on the car, usually the first cue will be how the sound deadener is applied on the inside and if the lip where the lower quarter attaches to the drop off is too wide. a good restorer will take care of the issues and will duplicate the factory spot welds as well, making it much...
Hey Doug, long time no see.
I find the problem with some of the online decoders (My Mopar for ex.) is that even though the instructions tell you to line up the information on your tag with the template given, it rarely works out. What I've found is that, in your situation for example, the...
I had a 20% off postcard from them that expired the other day and I struggled to find stuff to buy to just to use the discount. Their shipping has been outrageous for years.