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Connecting electric choke to coil side of ballast is insane. More load through ballast resistor = less voltage on coil = less spark.

Do you have a factory wiring diagram? If not, you need one. You just need to follow the path from fuse box and through each connector measuring the voltage to earth on both sides of each junction. It will be obvious where your voltage is being dropped.

Sorry Miller, I can't agree with that. Picking an arbitrary 1 ohm for OK/not OK is no good. Depends on length. 1 ohm would give a 1V drop if carrying 1 amp, and with only 12V to start with, a 1V drop per amp in a brake light circuit say would be no good at all. Better off measuring voltage at...

When hot, short coil wire to ground and crank whilst measuring battery terminal voltage. Then again at starter +ve lug. If they are the same, starter is the problem.

I have no more suggestions regarding alternator. Voltage test readings once you got it running need done first. As to why MSD keeps frying... system voltage too high, short on coil wiring, faulty or wrong coil or ballast resistor. It is pretty simple wiring and MSD pretty robust, so something...

Some basics - If the big fat alternator output wire was disconnected, then it can't be responsible for toasting your latest MSD 6A. Something else is going on. What that could be, I have no idea. Alternator should not really be spun up with output disconnected as it's output voltage can go...

Great thread, thanks to all those that were involved!

I doubt the reluctor/trigger coil setup could produce enough power to energise any relay, let alone one capable of switching coil current. Let's pretend it did, then the delay between energising the relay and its contacts closing would affect your timing accuracy (increasingly worse with RPM)...

Hi Mate Fiber washers are what you need..

Was engine ran/dyno'd? If so, you shouldn't need to retime it, but you do need to be sure wires go in right spots. How sure can you be the No 1 marking on dist cap is truly meant to be No 1? Perhaps the builder was nice and marked it for you to make your life easy. I'd still double check by...

If you don't care about originality why not get something like this - http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?75275-Mopar-Performance-billet-distributor-B-block-383-400 though this model has no vac advance so not ideal for street car. Pertronix retro-fits can be a pain if you...

If it's blowing a fuse but wasn't before, then you now have a short circuit to ground, and it's most likely to be in something you touched. You are looking for damaged insulation or a bulb contact that is grounded. There's no magic answer, you just have to keep looking and testing...

Been asked before - http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?11406-how-to-remove-lean-burn-from-a-cali-engine (Second reply has a link that may help.) I'd rip out the lean burn, fit a Summit, Jegs or MP Electronic ignition conversion kit. Original carb could probably be...

Yay, some replies!! Thanks guys, great to hear, as for $160 it is a steal. Here in Oz (Australia that is, not the land with a wonderful wizard where Dorothy from Kansas ended up), a place stocks the MP version, at $460!! I'm also buying wheels and tyres from Jegs and freighting them...

HEI is good, little doubt. If your a purist though, then you wouldn't consider it. A friend put one on his 600HP 440 stroker as it was the easy option, and I can't help but think of him a little differently now...

If the starter relay clicks in when in 'start', then neutral safety switch is OK. If you have 12V on one side of the relay contact and the relay closes, and 12V ain't coming out the other side, then I would say that relay is no good... Work out how to post a pic, it would help..

Anybody used the Jegs elecronic ignition kits? http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/40037/10002/-1?parentProductId= They look like the MP kit but are $65 cheaper. Which way should I go?!