Search results for query: *

No different to any other steering/suspension joint apart from some idler arms. Tie-rod ends or the ball joints are the same - You don't replace the joint part, you replace the whole thing as they're not made to be serviceable. Is there measurable side play in the pitman arm?

Ask 5 people which brand of cam to get and you'll get 5 different answers. You can't go wrong with either of those brands, but just pick carefully and don't over cam a street car with stock converter. (I personally like the Lunati Voodoo cams.) Definitely stick with dual plane intake...

Backing out the idle speed adjustment entirely (fully closing the butterflies) should restrict air flow to the point where motor will stall or at least idle very slowly Sound to me like you have a vacuum leak i.e air getting in to manifold by means other than carb... Brake booster is most...

Those holes are for balancing, but not associated with external balancing of a 360 or B/RB with cast crank. Assuming you have a 360?

If you are using lighter than factory rods and pistons, then naturally the crank counterweights would need to be reduced the appropriate amount to achieve a balanced assembly.... and yes, a lighter rotating/reciprocating assembly is better..

Where you at with your engine choice ChrycoDUDE? I'm guessing still sweet talking the boss :notworthy: (I've been there myself :icon_redface:)

Just big enough for the axles to slide into. The screw it to keep the pipe centered between axles and prevent it moving enough to allow an axle to slip out.

Small cubes and tall gears means don't go silly with cam choice. Magnum cam probably a good choice.

Yeah, A/C can complicate things, but you have no choice mate. You already have intake manifold and valve covers off. Now it's just radiator, ancillaries, water pump and timing case cover... Think carefully about the cam you want before you leap... Don't just ask here "what cam should I get?"...

Here's some pics a friend took for me before our nice weather traveled North... (PS - Loving this thread kiwigtx!)

I rebuilt a small block years ago that within a week developed a noise that was one chewed out exhaust valve guide. Head off and had guide replaced. Some time later it developed same symptoms you describe that was pushrod punched through an exhaust valve rocker. Good luck.

I personally would not do it as it can't be very good for the axle bearings or seals. I love YY1s idea of a pvc pipe to keep the axles centred - brilliant - I'll be using that idea shortly.

Id say you are in the right ballpark. My guess would be a punched out rocker or bent pushrod. Either way it shouldn't take you long to find.. good luck and please let us know what you find...

Looked like a Dana rear..

Like this - http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/avm-30-4110/overview/ Just needs the supplied threaded bung welded in header collector or just downstream. Takes all the guesswork out of carb tuning.

Current set-up sounds OK, on paper, I'd be happy with it. Does it run well, are you happy with it?

Higher octane fuel will not produce more power unless you don't have enough ignition advance in it now on 89 to hold off pinging. If your running full advance (total around 36 deg BTDC) and not pinging, then save your money...

It's the "cast in" cavity which is airspace around the exhaust crossover port. I've always assumed Ma put a cavity there to reduce the amount of heat transferred to intake face/manifold.

Yep

Are the 383 heads the same (i.e. also open chamber) like the 440 heads should be if they are '69? What are the casting no's? Are the pistons flat tops and how far down the hole are they at tdc? With this, CR can be approximated. The only way to know CR accurately is by measuring ccs and...